ProfessorCagan wrote:
Ok, guys, I do have a meter that can read frequency, and to be honest, I don't know why I haven't tried it yet, slipped my mind I suppose.
It slipped everybody's mind for quite a while, it seems. But it's a good lesson: there are a lot of different ways to debug things and get insight into what's going on in a circuit. If one approach isn't being helpful enough, get creative and find another. Each way of measuring something gives you something different (and invariably incomplete) information.
ProfessorCagan wrote:
Ok, so, the oscillator works correctly, tested it with the multimeter...
That's good to see. But do remember, just because it's a 1 MHz signal does not mean that it's of the appropriate shape to properly drive the CPU, nor does the signal you see when the output is not connected to anything necessarily match what the signal is when the oscillator is plugged into the circuit. But this is definitely a good additional piece of data!
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So, I can either use the scope for checking pulled address lines, or the meter for checking the oscillator outright (if it can,) or I can purchase a slower crystal.
I'd do all three, since you're at a moderately early learning stage with this stuff. In particular, a slower crystal will give you a lot more flexability when walking through your circuits with your 'scope, since much more of the circuit will be visible to it.
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...using a smaller crystal would let me see the LED's change correct, if it was slow enough of course?
Yes, exactly. But "slow enough" is probably somewhere around 4-5 Hz; much beyond that and the LED will start to look more like a constant but dimmer light. (In fact, turning LEDs on and off quickly is how many LED displays work.)
If the CPU with NOP pull-ups/downs on the data bus is working correctly, at 1 MHz the A15 line should be toggling at around 7.5 Hz. That may be too fast to see as actual blinking, depending on the particular conditions of the LED circuit, and of course each successively lower address line will be twice the rate of the previous. At 32.768 kHz A15 should be blinking at 0.25 Hz, or be on for two seconds followed by off for two seconds, which will be easily visible.
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When I last tried it, the LEDs that came on stayed on, and the ones that were off stayed off. I assume that is because was not receiving a clock signal?
No, that's not a good assumption to make, though it may be a reasonable hypothesis to start with. As I mentioned above, an LED being "on" may simply indicate that it's being turned on and off too fast for you to see with the human eye, an LED being unexpectedly on or off may indicate a problem with the LED or its part of the circuit, it could be that you're getting a clock but the CPU wasn't reset properly or has another signal preventing the exact operation you're hoping for (e.g., READY being low), the clock or other waveforms might be dodgy, or any of a number of other things.
So really, when things start going weird, it's often helpful to go back to the very start by checking the power lines, then the clock, then working out from there to every other signal in the system.