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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:18 am 
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Thanks, I looked at your posts, and that makes sense.

Thankfully I soldered each pin to a wire regardless. I have some floating pins, but they are outputs from the 6502 and the CA and CB lines on the 6522.

When I have time this week I'll try to connect them to ground and see what happens, who knows.

Thank you for the advice!

Chad

EDIT: Correction, I did NOT actually solder a wire for each unconnected output on the 6502. Hm! Whelp, this will be interesting.


Last edited by sburrow on Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:36 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:28 am 
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sburrow wrote:
barrym95838 wrote:
Kind of like this? @CountChocula might be able to offer some insights.


Kindof like that. The big solid parts, yes. But they are constant, they don't go away. This is not every line, but some address lines, some data lines, etc. And again, it happens... sometimes.

Thank you!

Might be some bus-contention going on. Given that your build is a soldered, point-to-point design, there could be a microscopic bit of solder bridging two unrelated connections.

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Last edited by BigDumbDinosaur on Tue Nov 09, 2021 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:50 am 
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BigDumbDinosaur wrote:
Might be some bus-contention going on. Given that your build is a solder, point-to-point design, there could be a microscopic bit of solder bridging two unrelated connections.[/color]


Just might. I was pretty careful along the way, testing with the multimeter against any two pins that were really close. Before connecting chips I double checked my address and data lines in particular. I was super strict on close calls, and used solder-wick very liberally.

BUT indeed there is dirt and grime in there that I could never get to. Especially after using solder-wick, or soldering a bit of the wire cover, crud starts flying!

Lots of learning to be had here.

Going off of the "floating pins" idea, I have a question: Could any 6502 outputs or 6522 CA or CB lines be left unconnected safely? I've seen countless schematics leaving some of these pins unconnected. All of the other "strange" input's on the 6502 were connected through pull-up resistors to VCC. This was standard procedure I figured, following Garth's and Floobydust's schematics.

About a month or so ago, I was testing out some 74LS' chips on the breadboard, full-adders and counters and such. I had left some pins floating, and it caused big problems, erratic behavior. It was like loony-land! Same seems to be happening here. Even with all of my double checking, I might have done something wrong. Who knows.

Thank you.

Chad


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 2:17 am 
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Unneeded outputs can be left unconnected. Unconnected 74LS inputs pull themselves up high, but any unused CMOS inputs shoulc be connected, unless they have bus-holding devices like the W65C22S does.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 9:41 am 
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sburrow wrote:
I have some floating pins, but they are outputs from the 6502 and the CA and CB lines on the 6522.

When I have time this week I'll try to connect them to ground and see what happens, who knows.

Don't tie any outputs to ground - that would be asking for trouble.

When you have an unreliable self-built computer, there are several possibilities
- error in the circuit design (glue logic or clock logic is not safe)
- error in the construction of the circuit (you built something different than you intended to)
- poor quality in the construction of the circuit (dry joints, bad connectors)
- poor power supply quality (not enough bypass capacitors, too much resistance)
- bad component (perhaps damaged by static, or not the component it's labelled as)

The best approach is to be methodical, check everything carefully, and form a hypothesis before you make a change. Take notes of what you see, what you don't see, before and after a change.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 11:20 am 
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Attached are some pictures of what my scope is telling me. When I try to connect the other channel to the clock (for comparisons), this channel goes dead. Sadly, I don't know enough about scopes as to why that is happening.

This is a pretty good representation of what I'm seeing on address and data lines. Last night I even saw it "both", then "high", then "low", then back to "both".

Again, this is happening... sometimes. When it does work, everything hums right along and the data and address lines that alternate look like the clock.

My clock has what looks like an overshoot, like a mini-spike past 5V when going up, and below 0V when going down. When I test Phi2Out or something, the clock signal is cleaned up a lot. Not sure if that has any effects on it.

I'll be pondering on this. Thank you all for the advice. I'm listening.

Chad


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:31 pm 
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GARTHWILSON wrote:
I don't see any real 'scope probes. Are they included, just not in the picture? Just clips to the coax will not be suitable. There's a lot that goes into oscilloscope probes which is not obvious, including even special cable (not normal coax), which is why they're expensive. Even for a 20MHz 'scope, they start at about $40 a pair. What I see in the picture will give extreme capacitive loading to fast digital lines and probably make your creation crash, and the 'scope won't be any good past about 2MHz anyway with them, which means a digital signal of about 200kHz or less. The probes must have a x10 switch setting.
What Garth' s saying is, the stuff shown in the picture ( with your post here ) isn't appropriate.

sburrow wrote:
I did turn the thing on, and I found that x10 setting you were talking about.

I have alligator clips and the little "prong" things. I just did a look on the internet for "oscilloscope probes" and I don't know if this qualifies as that?
The x10 setting on the scope itself is supposed to be set to match the actual probes you're using. Altering the setting doesn't alter the actual probes, unfortunately.

For the reasons Garth mentioned, your observations using the scope will be badly handicapped until you get proper probes. If you can't get proper probes, maybe you should be placing less reliance on the scope anyway, given that your scope skills are underdeveloped at this point. There are other useful approaches you can be taking.

(One thing you probably can 'scope successfully, even without proper probes, is the 5 VDC power supply. As you attach the connection, the trace should move from a straight line at zero to a straight line at 5V.)

-- Jeff

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 2:26 pm 
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Dr Jefyll wrote:
What Garth' s saying is, the stuff shown in the picture ( with your post here ) isn't appropriate.

(One thing you probably can 'scope successfully, even without proper probes, is the 5 VDC power supply. As you attach the connection, the trace should move from a straight line at zero to a straight line at 5V.)

-- Jeff


Thank you Jeff.

Yes, you are right. Heck, one of the clips I had to solder and then use electrical tape on because it was ripped. Not the best equipment.

The 5V is definitely coming up, that's no problem. Clock is ticking away as expected, so that's good.

Honestly I've been using my multimeter a LOT on this project. It helps tell me if something is connected, and it tells me voltages. These "both" readings I'm getting read at 2.5V, but so does the clock, and that's why I figured they were the same at first (but they are not).

Thank you again Jeff, I appreciate your experience and insight.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 2:32 pm 
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Chad,
First of all, you got an "A" for efforts and persistence which are extremely important to be successful in electronic.

Next time you do point-to-point breadboard, I'd suggest you use 30 gauge wire wrap wire. It is a smaller diameter wire so it is much easier to handle. They are used successfully in countless number of wire wrap boards, so they are good enough for manual wiring as well.

I suspect what you are seeing is oscillation due to positive feedback coupled into ground, an extreme case of ground bounce. Floating inputs can do that so can multiple data lines switching simultaneously. A solution is slowing down the circuit; I don't mean operating frequency, I mean the edge rate of components. Globally, you want to use the slowest device possible, have a solid ground, and lower the supply voltage. Locally, the clock signal and control signals can benefit from proper termination, but I don't think I'll attempt that given the existing mess of wires.

I've come to be AFRAID of W65C02. It is so fast that it needs to be tamed with good ground, good power supply (0.1uF bypass and 10uF filter), and operate at lower voltage (It'll work at 3V so don't be afraid of lower your global supply).

As others have mentioned, you don't have a 10x probe on your scope so the signals displayed will have distorted edge with overshoot and undershoot that are not real. Still, it is an useful tool and you can take advantage of the excessive capacitive loading by probing around and see if your board operate differently when certain signals are probed. That can be a strong indication of a localized problem.

Don't be afraid of lay out a pc board even if the design may not work. PC board is cheap, do reserve some prototype area. You clearly have the skill to patch your pc board if it does not work. It is a lot easier to cut & add a few gates than hand wire the entire board!
Bill


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 4:11 pm 
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plasmo wrote:
I've come to be AFRAID of W65C02. It is so fast that it needs to be tamed with good ground, good power supply (0.1uF bypass and 10uF filter), and operate at lower voltage (It'll work at 3V so don't be afraid of lower your global supply).

What Bill is saying is the outputs of the W65C02 switch extremely fast, which can generate very high frequency noise that will find its way back into the VCC and ground paths, creating possibly-undefined circuit conditions. Meticulous construction, along with proper bypassing, is essential to achieving reliability. Note that this sort of problem is not directly related to the Ø2 clock rate—ground bounce and VCC sag can occur at 1 MHz.

Lowering the system voltage may help, but that is a band-aid fix for a more fundamental problem. Lots of homebrew machines successfully run at 5 volts...and at high clock rates.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 4:44 pm 
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sburrow wrote:
Attached are some pictures of what my scope is telling me. d


Am I seeing that correctly? Do you have the sweep time set to 1 second and the trigger voltage set to 0V?

You might wan to set the sweep to something like 10x the clock period (say 10us for a 1MHz clock) to begin with then change as required to see what you need to see, and the trigger voltage to between 1V and 4V.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 5:10 pm 
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BillO wrote:
Am I seeing that correctly? Do you have the sweep time set to 1 second and the trigger voltage set to 0V?

You might wan to set the sweep to something like 10x the clock period (say 10us for a 1MHz clock) to begin with then change as required to see what you need to see, and the trigger voltage to between 1V and 4V.


That's a great question. So when I hook my clock up to it, I get about 8 squarewave pulses on that screen. I'm currently running it at 250kHZ.

Now, is the scope changing it's setting automatically on me, and I just don't recognize it? Maybe! A "smart" version I guess.

I'll investigate that later, I'm at work now.

As for BDD and Plasmo, thank you. That's very very good advice. And it makes perfect sense as to why it works sometimes but not others. The capacitors change the 'habit' of it, which is why I've been thinking it's a capacitor problem.

I use the 0.01uF bypass capacitors on each IC, and a 100uF polarized capacitor near the power supply. Should I change those values?

Lastly, how do I change the speed of the rising and falling of these chips? Like you said, it's not my oscillating clock speed, but how fast it comes up and down that's the problem. How do I slow that down? Not just in this case, wire existing, but on a PCB or whatever. Is there something that *guarantees* a slower rise and fall time, besides just getting different chips entirely? With the W65C02 I'm kind of stuck with it, so would these capacitors be enough to 'slow' it down? I like the idea of trying lower voltage on this existing board, but like BDD says, 5V shouldn't be hard to manage. How then do I do that reliably?

Thank you very much.

Chad


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 6:48 pm 
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sburrow wrote:
BillO wrote:
Am I seeing that correctly? Do you have the sweep time set to 1 second and the trigger voltage set to 0V?

You might wan to set the sweep to something like 10x the clock period (say 10us for a 1MHz clock) to begin with then change as required to see what you need to see, and the trigger voltage to between 1V and 4V.

That's a great question. So when I hook my clock up to it, I get about 8 squarewave pulses on that screen. I'm currently running it at 250kHZ.

Do you have a manual for the scope? It sounds as though you need to do some serious reading so you can correctly use the instrument.

Also, if you don't have one, you need acquire a high-quality probe for your scope. The best scope in the world will not perform as it should with an el cheapo probe. Quality probes are of the so-called compensating type, which can be adjusted to produce optimal results with your particular scope. Cheap probes may add parasitic capacitance to the circuit under test—the mere application of the probe to the circuit may cause it to misbehave.

Always use the probe on the 10× setting. The 1× setting will load the circuit under test and may cause the scope to display a distorted waveform, leading you to think there is something wrong with what is actually a properly-functioning circuit. In extreme cases, using the probe on the 1× setting can trigger system fatality—been there, done that. :oops:

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I use the 0.01uF bypass capacitors on each IC, and a 100uF polarized capacitor near the power supply. Should I change those values?

I recommend you increase the bypass capacitors to 0.1µF, and be sure the leads are as short as possible so they don't add excessive inductance.

The type of bypass capacitor is as important as the capacitance. I use X7R MLCCs, which perform very well in this sort of application. The voltage rating should be ~10 times VCC to avoid problems with capacitance-derating that occurs with elevated voltages. Bypass capacitors are like money: you can always use more. :D

The electrolytic should be fine. A low ESR part is preferred in digital work.

Quote:
Lastly, how do I change the speed of the rising and falling of these chips?

You don't. Output slew rate is an innate characteristic of the technology used to fabricate the device. Logic families such as 74AHC and 74HC have less-aggressive switching speeds than 74AC. In a hand-wired system such as yours, 74HC is a good choice, as it isn't likely you will run it fast enough for propagation times to become a consideration.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 7:05 pm 
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BigDumbDinosaur wrote:
I recommend you increase the bypass capacitors to 0.1uF, and be sure the leads are as short as possible so they don't add excessive inductance.

The type of bypass capacitor is as important as the capacitance. I use X7R MLCCs, which perform very well in this sort of application. The voltage rating should be ~10 times VCC to avoid problems with capacitance-derating that occurs with elevated voltages. Bypass capacitors are like money: you can always use more. :D

The electrolytic should be fine. A low ESR part is preferred in digital work.

Quote:
Lastly, how do I change the speed of the rising and falling of these chips?

You don't. Output slew rate is an innate characteristic of the technology used to fabricate the device. Logic families such as 74AHC and 74HC have less-aggressive switching speeds than 74AC. In a hand-wired system such as yours, 74HC is a good choice, as it isn't likely you will run it fast enough for propagation times to become a consideration.[/color]


Thank you. I just ordered some 0.1uF capacitors, will replace those and see what happens. I also plan on bringing the VCC's 5V down to 3.3V with a LM1117 that I have laying around, and see if that helps.

I am using 74HC's along with the W65C02. My 62256 is 70 ns and my 28C256 is 150 ns I believe, nothing fancy as far as I can tell.

For the scope, because it's the college's, I don't want to invest a lot of money into it, if at all possible. But we will see going forward.

Thank you BDD.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 7:24 pm 
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sburrow wrote:
I also plan on bringing the VCC's 5V down to 3.3V with a LM1117 that I have laying around, and see if that helps.

I doubt it will.

In any case, if you do go for 3.3 volts, make sure that all parts will operate at that level. For example, the 28C256 will not operate at that voltage. You'll also need a 3.3 volt oscillator.

Frankly, I think you are wasting your time with lowering the voltage. I think the problem is something unrelated to operating voltage and/or switching speeds.

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