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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 9:55 am 
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Quote:
His web page on it has a link to http://www.dirtypcbs.com/ with ultra cheap boards. I wonder how their quality is.

I'm quite happy with them. In addition to the photos and my "diary" of my experience with dirtypcbs.com on this page, I made a second order from them about five months ago, and you can see the photos of those boards in the second half of this blog post.

I did a fair bit of research on them before ordering anything. The most common complaint I saw was that the solder mask is often a bit off, and I saw a photo where someone had pads for a surface mount IC where the solder mask that was supposed to go between each pad was instead on top of the pads. So in my first order I made all of the holes in the solder mask an extra 2 mills larger, and in the second order it appears I either forgot to do that or decided I didn't care, but the boards I received had the extra 2 mills of clearance anyway, so apparently they add it automatically. I also notice there's no solder mask between the surface mount IC pads. It appears to either have fallen off during manufacturing due to being so thin, or it was intentionally removed at some point, as there are bits of it visible in places on some of the boards, making it obvious that they didn't increase the clearance around the pads enough to completely eliminate it, and yet it isn't there. Of course, if this worries you, the smart thing to do is to simply block out the solder mask for the whole row of pads, since if there's no copper between the pads then there's no need for a solder mask between the pads. ...but I wouldn't even worry about it, as it appears they're aware of the problem and take steps to prevent it.

None of the other complaints I saw really made any sense. It was all junk like "well, they do look a bit worse than the boards I got from such and such" with no explanation of what exactly they didn't like about them, which is just nonsense. The things look beautiful to me, so I'm not sure what such people's standards are, other than perhaps that they're trying to feel better about having spent $200 for ten boards from another manufacturer. Just do a Google Image search for "dirtypcbs.com" and you can see plenty of examples of their work and judge for yourself.

If you look at the boards with a magnifier, there are tiny indentations on every pad, making it clear that they're electrically testing the boards. This particularly amuses me since my PCB software doesn't actually use the "pad" Gerber command for SMT pads, it just creates tracks that aren't covered with solder mask, yet their systems still identified those tracks as points to be electrically tested. That's not too surprising as any track not covered by solder mask is an obvious test candidate, but it's still something that less-advanced software could have missed.

My only complaint is that they can't do non-plated holes, since even if you make a hole with no copper around it, they still plate the hole.

They are also nice in that they will allow you to panelize designs (something most manufacturers won't allow), a fact which some people have totally abused and yet they still manufactured their board for them anyway. The routing on that board is so rough that I'm convinced someone had to pull them out of a machine and route them by hand. The routing on my boards, despite the curvy outline, is as smooth as can be.

Anyway, I love the boards and I love the price. It would be nice if the shipping were faster (and it can be if you're willing to pay for it), but 3-4 weeks kind of works for me in a way, in that it's long enough that I'm not getting my hopes up about receiving the boards every day, but rather, it's so far off that I forget all about them and find something else to do, then one day when I'm not even thinking about it they arrive and I'm like "yay!"

Also, you do all know about PCB Shopper, right?


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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:52 pm 
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Moosfet wrote:
The most common complaint I saw was that the solder mask is often a bit off,

That's called "gasketing."

Quote:
and I saw a photo where someone had pads for a surface mount IC where the solder mask that was supposed to go between each pad was instead on top of the pads. So in my first order I made all of the holes in the solder mask an extra 2 mills larger

standard practice here

Quote:
and in the second order it appears I either forgot to do that or decided I didn't care, but the boards I received had the extra 2 mills of clearance anyway, so apparently they add it automatically. I also notice there's no solder mask between the surface mount IC pads. It appears to either have fallen off during manufacturing due to being so thin, or it was intentionally removed at some point, as there are bits of it visible in places on some of the boards, making it obvious that they didn't increase the clearance around the pads enough to completely eliminate it, and yet it isn't there. Of course, if this worries you, the smart thing to do is to simply block out the solder mask for the whole row of pads, since if there's no copper between the pads then there's no need for a solder mask between the pads.

That should be fine if you're using rosin flux and the boards are not going into an environment that will pick up certain kinds of contaminants.  As the EPA got tougher on manufacturers (25+ years ago) for polluting from the cleaning after assembly, it got so they almost couldn't use anything but water, so they went to water-soluble fluxes.  Those were a disaster.  They are corrosive if you don't clean them off.  But just as bad for our company's sensitive analog circuits, water-soluble fluxes penetrate the pores in the PC board where it's not masked, and they produce conductive paths, even if the board appears to be clean.  And further, those conductive paths don't act like a quiet resistor, but make a noise like frying bacon in the audio signals we deal with.  I always specify in PC-board manufacturing instructions (for analog boards) that the holes in my soldermask files are not to be opened up any bigger than I set them, and that any pair of pads that are .010" apart or more absolutely must have soldermask running between them (unless they're connected already anyway).  This is more of a flux mask than a solder mask.

The first time I encountered the problem years ago, we had just changed assembly houses for a particular board—a rather simple one with no soldermask—and the new assembly house was using water-soluble flux because of the EPA making life difficult for them.  A technician who was testing the product before shipping to customers ran into a problem right away and couldn't figure it out.  He asked me for help.  It didn't make sense.  I had him remove various components from a net until there was nothing at all left on it, and still there was maybe 50K between that trace and another.  I told him, "Then there's only one possibility left.  Take your solvent and really scrub that thing.  When you think you have it super clean, do it again."  That fixed it.

Every few years after that, someone in assembly would bring in some flux to make it easier to solder wires by hand, and we would get the frying-bacon sound again, and then we would have to find out who did it and explain why they can't do that and make sure we get all of it out of the plant.


Quote:
My only complaint is that they can't do non-plated holes, since even if you make a hole with no copper around it, they still plate the hole.

That would require a second drilling, an additional step, raising the price.

Quote:
They are also nice in that they will allow you to panelize designs (something most manufacturers won't allow), a fact which some people have totally abused and yet they still manufactured their board for them anyway. The routing on that board is so rough that I'm convinced someone had to pull them out of a machine and route them by hand. The routing on my boards, despite the curvy outline, is as smooth as can be.

If you can get ten of the small boards for $14, that's an incredibly good deal even without fitting several different designs in the size limit tier, when you consider the time to lay them out, and the cost of the parts that will go on them, and the time to assemble them by hand.

Quote:
Also, you do all know about PCB Shopper, right?

Thanks Moosfet!

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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 12:49 am 
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I can't find the design submissions requirements for Dirty PCBs.  On a forum post I read that there's a 5/5 mil min and .012" min hole size.  Some of these inexpensive board houses require that certain layers have exact file names, hole sizes be on a list of bit sizes they keep loaded in the machines, and so on. How about Dirty PCBs?  [Edit, years later:  They're at http://dirtypcbs.com/store/pcbs/about, including required filename extensions for the various layers.]

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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:32 am 
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If you click on the about button http://dirtypcbs.com/about.php you get a bunch of information about their capabilities and other useful information. You can also find a CAM job for Eagle you can download. You can also download a DRC file to check against their capabilities. I slightly modified the CAM job to include some other layers to be put on the silk screen. I recommend to read everything about CAM jobs on dangarous prototypes they have an excellent tutorial. I also made some other changes to the CAM job. First with Eagle 7.5 and newer you should use the EXCELLON_24 as the device for the drill file and not the default EXCELLON which is in the original CAM job. Then I also inclucded a path in the output file so the gerber files are exported to a directory within the project folder (the directory must exist before the CAM job is run).

The Dirtypcb site seems to be run by the guys of dangerous prototypes and they only act as a relay to several board houses. I have now done 2 PCBs with them. One was the PCB for ROMulus the 2nd. I was very pleased by the quality and especially the price. I was using the custom size service for my 10x15cm board, which means higher costs and exactly 10 pieces. But at a total cost of 58USD shipping included this is still very cheap in comparison to the local board houses. The other board I just received on friday is for another SBC project based on a DCJ-11 (so it will not show here), same size same prize but different color (yellow, which fortunately is not a light yellow so the white silk screen is still very readable). Both boards are 2-layer and I restricted myself to 12mil trace width and used a minimum drill size of 14mil for the vias. This allows to use a grid of 0.025mil sufficient to have one signal between 0.1" spaced ICs pins. You can have a trace and a via as close as the grid allows, you cannot have two vias as close as one grid unit. Vias must be off at least 2 grid units (including when you go one up and one sideways -> 1 unit diagonally is enough). You can try to

I use Eagle 7.5 on a Macintosh. To send your data to Dirtypcb you need to create gerber files and ZIP them into an archive. So any CAD able to create gerber files will do.

I have used SMD parts on both designs, mostly 0805 resistors and capacitors but also ICs with TQFP-44 and SOI-20/24 and SOJ-32/36. So just the things I can still solder by hand.

My brother used http://www.pcbway.com for his boards and was very happy with the results. They have even more options and they recently dropped their price, so in many cases will be cheaper than Dirtypcbs, especially as when you order "only" 5 PCBs (I always got 10 pieces now but I will barely use more than 2 :roll: )


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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:16 pm 
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Thanks, Peter.  Your link especially answered some questions.  I don't use Eagle, but instead an old DOS-based version of Easy PC Professional from Number One Systems in England.  It was from before the days of gerber 274X, but I can convert quickly from its old 274D output to 274X, also yielding capabilities well beyond what the programmers intended.  Using my checking methods, I have never had any DRC or other manufacturing errors, in spite of going up to 12 layers and 500 parts on a board.

It's great to have these hobbyist-suitable prices!  When I first started doing production board designs for work 30 years ago, I don't remember what the single-sided ones cost, but first article on double-sided ones was about $450.  Having the graphic-arts house do the initial film reduction first might have been extra.  (Yes, we had to provide films, not digital files.)  In the early 1990's, we had multilayer boards that approached $2000 for first article.  Even today, smallish, double-sided boards start at a few hundred dollars for a hundred boards.  For hobby or other non-production purposes, it's nice to have a cheap service that puts your order on the same panel with others' boards and doesn't give it any human attention, to bring the price into our reach.

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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 5:34 am 
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I don't want to hijack the conversation, but this is sort of on the original topic, as far as I can see:

Am I the only one making my own boards?

I have yet to have the silkscreening to turn out perfect, so they don't look professional, but otherwise I get good results. I don't know how it could get cheaper, but of course there is labor involved.

If you're only ever going to do one board in your life, it would be cheaper to use a professional fab shop. The initial investment is well over $100 for a high quality two-layer board. But they are dirt cheap after that.

If you're only ever going to do four-layer boards it probably doesn't pay either. I haven't attempted that yet, but it doesn't look easy.

I use the PCB Fab In a Box method. Sure, you can do the same thing without their stuff, but, I find it makes more sense in the long run to use their stuff. And no I don't have a pecuniary interest.

Prior to this, I masked boards with a resist pen in a CNC machine spindle. I've also milled boards. I've laid out boards by hand, too. None of those methods gave me results as good and as easy, though.

Something I found being discussed on another forum is some newfangled silkscreening kit for making T-shirts and things. I haven't looked into that yet, but that might be a possibility, too.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:08 am 
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KC9UDX wrote:
I don't know how it could get cheaper, but of course there is labor involved.

If you're only ever going to do one board in your life, it would be cheaper to use a professional fab shop. The initial investment is well over $100 for a high quality two-layer board. But they are dirt cheap after that.

If I did the quote page correctly (I haven't sent the order yet), I'll be paying a little over a dollar a board total for 20 or 30 boards.  That even includes shipping!  [Edit: They gave me a few extras, so it really came to $0.83 per board.  Later I did a revision and got 264 tiny boards for $28.]  Granted, they're teensy; but I'm using .007"/.007" trace/space (which I could never do at home), and pads for an SO-8, plus soldermask that reaches between the SO-8 lands.  Vias are .015" diameter, on .035" pads.  You do of course need CAD, and apparently the free ones are pretty limited.  In this case I'm sure I'm not pushing the limits of any CAD, but my work paid for mine long ago and considers it basically mine as no one else in the company has ever used it or knows how.  Actually, there's no one left in the company who even remembers they got it for me! :D Come to think of it, this tiny board is so simple I could lay it out by hand on quadrille paper and type up the gerber 274X files with a text editor.  Trying to do that with bigger boards though, you might not live long enough. :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:33 am 
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GARTHWILSON wrote:
If I did the quote page correctly (I haven't sent the order yet), I'll be paying a little over a dollar a board total for 20 or 30 boards. That even includes shipping! Granted, they're teensy;
That's the thing.
After my initial investment (not per job), I can probably make any quantity of 8x10 boards for a little over a dollar a board. Small boards even cheaper; but of course at some point it makes sense just to pay to have it done.

Most of my boards are one-offs, and they only cost me time and material. Unfortunately I don't even know what I've paid for materials because it's been so long since I've bought them.

Quote:
but I'm using .007"/.007" trace/space (which I could never do at home), and pads for an SO-8, plus soldermask that reaches between the SO-8 lands. Vias are .015" diameter, on .035" pads.
I did .005/.005 in about a 1x1 space on one job. I didn't think it would work, but it did. I still don't like to if I don't have to. I cannot do soldermask. My smallest vias have been .022" diameter, with probably .040" pads (I'd have to look to verify the pad diameter, but it's probably right). I could probably do smaller vias, but so far I haven't needed to.

Quote:
You do of course need CAD, and apparently the free ones are pretty limited. In this case I'm sure I'm not pushing the limits of any CAD, but my work paid for mine long ago and considers it basically mine as no one else in the company has ever used it or knows how. Actually, there's no one left in the company who even remembers they got it for me! :D
I have quite a library of software like that but unfortunately nothing that would help with this. (Well, frankly, I have used AutoCAD to layout boards in the past.) You need CAD if you use a fab shop too. Of course the difference is that some fab shops let you use their CAD, which as you eluded to, is much better than the free stuff.

I use Fritzing, which isn't easy, but it works. I'm happy to use it because I have nothing better to compare it to.

Quote:
Come to think of it, this tiny board is so simple I could lay it out by hand on quadrille paper and type up the gerber 274X files with a text editor. Trying to do that with bigger boards though, you might not live long enough. :lol:

In 1980, you wouldn't have hesitated, at any size. But you wouldn't have used a text editor, probably. :)

I might still have some large boards that I laid out by hand. They're hideous to look at, but work. Far, far too much work for one job, considering the alternatives now. Some of my milled boards were just as much work. But once I've written the program (by hand), subsequent boards are not as much work.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:37 am 
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KC9UDX wrote:
GARTHWILSON wrote:
If I did the quote page correctly (I haven't sent the order yet), I'll be paying a little over a dollar a board total for 20 or 30 boards.  That even includes shipping!  Granted, they're teensy;
That's the thing.
After my initial investment (not per job), I can probably make any quantity of 8x10 boards for a little over a dollar a board.

I did my own in the 70's and 80's, painting solder resist on (which I couldn't do with the fine lines I would want in digital work), but the copper-clad board and the etchant would come out far more expensive than you're talking about.  For double-sided, I also had to solder to both sides, since I didn't have any way to plate the inside of a hole.  The price of the parts I'm putting on this tiny board will come to more than the board itself though.

Quote:
Quote:
but I'm using .007"/.007" trace/space (which I could never do at home), and pads for an SO-8, plus soldermask that reaches between the SO-8 lands.  Vias are .015" diameter, on .035" pads.
I did .005/.005 in about a 1x1 space on one job.  I didn't think it would work, but it did.

That's impressive for a home job!

Quote:
Quote:
You do of course need CAD, and apparently the free ones are pretty limited. <snip>

I have quite a library of software like that but unfortunately nothing that would help with this.  (Well, frankly, I have used AutoCAD to layout boards in the past.)  You need CAD if you use a fab shop too.  Of course the difference is that some fab shops let you use their CAD, which as you eluded to, is much better than the free stuff.

CADs that are only for the one shop have that disadvantage.  They might be ok for hobby purposes, but if we wanted to take it to another shop for higher volumes or whatever reason, we'd be out of luck.  I think BDD did mention some kind of third-party software that would translate ExpressPCB files into gerber/excellon.

Quote:
Quote:
Come to think of it, this tiny board is so simple I could lay it out by hand on quadrille paper and type up the gerber 274X files with a text editor.  Trying to do that with bigger boards though, you might not live long enough. :lol:

In 1980, you wouldn't have hesitated, at any size.  But you wouldn't have used a text editor, probably. :)

No, when I started, it was 2x or 4x actual size on velum, then put the stable-based transparent material over it, one sheet for each layer, and tape it up with black crepe tape and the patterns we could buy from Bishop Graphics.  The computer boards you see from the 1970's with the curvy traces were laid out that way, and taped up with this adhesive crepe tape that was available in different widths and was easy to turn in rather tight radii.

    Edit, 2022: I found the last board I taped, in 1993, at home for a job on the side, just before I got my own CAD:
    Attachment:
    MacsBusThingTop.jpg
    MacsBusThingTop.jpg [ 226.29 KiB | Viewed 1424 times ]

    Attachment:
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    MacsBusThingBack.jpg [ 197.72 KiB | Viewed 1424 times ]

    I think I threw out my box of crepe tapes and IC patterns and stuff just a couple of years ago, after not having touched it in over 25 years.<end edit>

When we got started in CAD, we used an HP7475A plotter to plot the boards on stable-based material (frosted mylar?) and took it to the graphic-arts house for them to reduce them to actual-size films, since the plotter couldn't go that small.  Then we took the films to the board house.

Later, but before the internet, the board houses had their own photoplotters and we could send the files by dial-up modem to their BBS.  We were probably on a 1200 bps modem, certainly not more than 2400.

I didn't get much into the gerber text files until many years later when board houses started wanting 274X rather than 274D (since 274X made for less human involvement at their end), and I had to learn to convert, which is really quite easy once you know the "language" and build your templates, and I also took the opportunity to pull some other tricks that my CAD was not made to do.  The conversion saved me a lot of time trying to write up clear explanations of what to do with files for layers that were not simple enough to specify with a single file each using 274D.  My readme.txt instruction files suddenly became a lot simpler.  I do use a gerber viewer at the end of the process to make sure I got what I wanted, without errors.


Quote:
Some of my milled boards were just as much work.  But once I've written the program (by hand), subsequent boards are not as much work.

I have been intrigued by the PCB milling machines.  If you have access to that, that's great!  How does the price work out, as I expect you're having to replace bits that wear out from the glass (fiberglass)?  Or do you use a different base that's not so hard on the bits, rather than FR-4?

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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:29 am 
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I have some PCD endmills but I don't think I used them for that. Carbide holds up pretty well, especially if you're only removing copper, and not making many boards. I only made maybe a half dozen that way. It was too time consuming for me. Etching with the printed transfer resist is much faster, a lot less work (I have to program the CNC by hand), and gives better results, at least in my case. The hardest part is getting the two sides of the board aligned.

Frankly, I've had no trouble with HSS drills, and I''ve drilled thousands of holes in PCB material. Though when a drill that small finally gets old it usually just breaks unexpectedly, and replacing them is very unpainful so I've probably used more than I remember.

I have the machine and endmills prior, so I don't quite know how to cost it. I could figure it out if I had to, but it would be different for someone intending to make PCBs from the start.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:45 am 
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Here is the first board I made with the PCB Fab in a Box process.

It's not pretty, but it's far better than anything I did previously. Ones I made since then were much nicer.
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IMAG1168_crop_606x441.jpg [ 186.26 KiB | Viewed 5853 times ]


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 4:22 pm 
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Very nice boards you have done with your own methods. My experiences with producing my own boards have not been very exiting, that was about 30 years ago. I did a lot of etching. I used a lot of different methods like painting with water resistant pens, using tape and stencils for ICs or thermotransfer sheets. But all that was a lot of work and consumed a lot of time. I then switched to verowire and did almost all Projects with verowire, which is very fancy and even complex Projects did work quite well. I also have a NC milling machine and tried milling PCBs. Nothing was really satisfying.

If I take into account all aspects then I doubt very much that selfmade boards are cheaper than using a board house. Dirtypcbs will get you at least 8 dual layer boards with a size of up to 5cm x 5cm for 14USD including shipping. The boards have platedthrough vias and pads and a nice silkscreen and soldermask. You can even have your own shape, provided it fits into a 5cm x 5cm area. If this is not big enough then there is the 10cm x 10cm option for 25USD.

My boards used a non-standard which is not applicable for the cheap Service. And also requires the Maker license of Eagle for 162USD. But I have a complete workflow without the hassle of creating two layouts (top and bottom), Transfer them perfectly alligned to the two sides of the copper plated board and drilling somewhat between 500 to 1000 holes. I draw my schematic, if reequired add parts to my personal library, create the PCB, place the components and layout the Connections. Then I run the CAM Job, zip the files and upload it. For me this "simplicity" is worth to spend some extra bucks and saves me a lot of time.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheap PCB stories...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 5:12 pm 
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(I'm interested to hear more about your J11 adventure if you care to start an OT thread! 18MHz on a breadboard has to be interesting!)

Edit: Peter did start the thread, elsewhere: http://anycpu.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=304


Last edited by BigEd on Thu Aug 25, 2016 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:13 pm 
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Or wouldn't a thread at anycpu.org be a better place? I assume you use the same username there :D


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 10:34 pm 
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Today I received my second order from DirtyPCBs.com, the tiny flash module I showed in the SPI-10 topic but with the revised pinout per the final spec, and the corrected footprint for the wide SO-8 flash IC.

  • I went for .008" traces and they did not get narrowed this time.  (The first time around, I used .007", and they got narrowed a bit, possibly to .005.  (I don't have a way to measure exactly; but when you do .007"/.007" trace and space and you can look at parallel .007" traces that should be .007" apart see the space is nearly twice the width of the trace, it's not hard to make a reasonably close estimate.)

  • The hole registration isn't the best, so although I have not found any problems so far, I'll try to remember to either leave a little more ring width next time (ie, add more than my normal .020" to the hole diameter to get the pad diameter), or do some tear-dropping where traces come in to the pads (or both).  Supposedly, having the trace just fall down into the thru-plated hole without a ring around the hole at that point is less reliable—although I have not seen any actual failures of such.

  • A couple of the holes seem to have gotten enlarged slightly, and two-thirds of the vias got reduced in size, and they put soldermask over those reduced vias.  I re-checked my soldermask gerber files, and the holes in the soldermask are indeed specified there to keep soldermask off those vias.  No big deal though.

  • Since for how tiny the boards were it was no more expensive for 200 than for 20, I went for 200, and actually got 264.  Wow, talk about inexpensive!  They came in panels of 4x6 boards which is best for automated assembly; but I did not initially see the tiny scribed lines for easily separating them, and I thought, "Oh great, now I have to cut them apart with the Dremell tool!"  I don't though.  They did a nice job.

I just sent them another order last night for 200 similarly sized boards.  I could wish I had seen these newly arrived ones first; but I think it'll be fine.  [Edit:  Tthese and subsequent ones were perfect; so apparently they're improving rapidly.]  I have another one coming up that will be assembled by machine, and having the panelizing will be perfect, keeping the machine operators from having to load individual boards.

So overall, I'd say give them some room for loose-ish tolerances, and you'll enjoy extremely low prices on custom PCBs that do the job, at least for double-sided.  I have not tried their multilayer boards yet.  Multilayer will be more critical since any problems on inner layers will not be visually detectable and are not easily fixed.

I might come back later and add pictures here.  [Edit: just see viewtopic.php?p=48365#p48365 .]

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