nyef wrote:
I know what's going to be in my next electronic parts order. (-:
Do let me know if you have any problems following my instructions. While I've proofread them several times, the number of times I "corrected" my description of pins 4 through 9 before finally describing them correctly (at least I hope so) is kind of sad. I seem to have been much less confused about everything else though, so I'm pretty sure I have all of the details correct now.
Also, I recommend working on the read functionality at first, so that you can make sure you have your bit clocking routines functional before burning through any of the chip's rather limited lifetime of 100 erase cycles. The identification string that is in the chip by default can serve as an aid to recognizing when you're reading the chip's contents correctly. Also, if you keep clocking bits after you read the 132 bits from a row, the next six bits are the row address that you read from, just with the bits inverted, and so looking for that can help you to see that the chip is receiving your address bits correctly and that your reading of the chip's output bits isn't misaligned.
The chip seems to be resilient to bad programming. I ordered ten chips assuming I might break a few in the process of trying to sort out how to program it, but the chip I did all of my testing on still works, and that's after I decided that since my programmer was already working, I might as well risk breaking one of the chips by doing seemingly incorrect things just to see what might happen, e.g. longer/shorter strobes when erasing and writing, writing to unused row addresses, etc. So as long as you don't accidentally erase the chip more than 100 times, or apply the programming voltage to the wrong pin, I expect just about anyone can get a programmer working without having to buy more than one chip for testing.