65Org16.x Dev. Board V1.0 using a Spartan 6 XC6LX9-3TQG144

[BigEd]

I don't think github expects one person to take more than one fork. Normally in git you might take branches for this purpose. But I don't think you can create a branch using only github's web interface.

Or maybe you'd maintain more than one copy of the file. Again though, I don't think you can add a new file without moving beyond github's web interface. Do you feel like getting started with git proper? It is another learning experience, and I hesitate here because that might just slow things down.

Try this maybe:
http://code.google.com/p/gitextensions/
(assuming you are on Windows)

Is it worth considering using
`define
statements to cover the 65c02 additions?

Cheers
Ed

[ElEctric_EyE]

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[Arlet]

Personally, I've never been a big fan of 'defines', because I think they make the code much harder to read.

If I need different code for different purposes, I usually just make a copy and edit that. I like the 6502 NMOS core because of its nostalgic value, so I would keep that as it is now.

If I wanted to have a 16 bit core for a new project, I would just design the whole thing from scratch (in fact, I did such a thing a while ago), and optimize the design for FPGA from the start.

[BigEd]

yes, there's an argument for keeping things simple and clean!

[BigEd]

... by the way, all I mean by this is keeping the code clean, perhaps by doing without defines and not bothering with parameterised cores, both of which are causing some untidyness. I don't mean giving up on 65Org16 - I'm sticking with that!

[ElEctric_EyE]

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[ElEctric_EyE]

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[ElEctric_EyE]

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[ElEctric_EyE]

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[Arlet]

ElEctric_EyE wrote:

Anything small that is .5mm or .050in is a PITA to control and solder. I've found using a fine pair of tweezers to put the part in place works well. Then use a fine flat tip screwdriver to hold it in place while soldering.

Usually I just tack a corner with a blob of tin to fix the part. If it's not completely straight, I melt the blob, and reposition. The blob usually covers 2-3 pins. When it's straight, I put another blob on the other side, and then solder all the pins.

An other technique is to get a few inches of anti-static tape, and stick the part in the middle. Now you can take both ends of the tape, lift the part, put it in position on the board, and when it's straight, stick the ends of the tape down. Solder the pins that aren't covered by the tape, remove the tape, and solder the rest.

[ElEctric_EyE]

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[Arlet]

ElEctric_EyE wrote:

Nice tip about the tape... I would still make sure to press down on packages like QFP for a better connection.

After the part is in position, solder the first couple of pins down for stability, then gently press down on the part, while you melt the solder again.

Quote:

Got any tips on soldering 0603 SMD's?, besides slow and steady breathing and dreaming of the finished product?

I put some solder on the first pad, pick up the part with fine tweezers, and solder the first side. If it isn't completely flush with the board, I sometimes press down with my fingernail while melting the first joint again. Once one side is fixed, I do the other side. Sometimes I go back to the first side if I'm not happy with the way the joint looks.

You'll need a clean tip, and good quality solder/flux. Temperature of the iron is also important, as well as working quickly. The slower you work, the more flux will evaporate. And practice, practice, practice....

[ElEctric_EyE]

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