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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:11 am 
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Isn't a solid Vdd plane just as effective as a solid Vss plane for signal path returns? I don't know why the little engineer in my head is whispering this, but I'm not scared to advertise his ignorance if he's wrong.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:19 am 
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Certainly I've seen and used the term 'virtual ground' before.

I can't feel that two ground planes is a great idea - it's going to make the power routing more difficult, at least.

And, while it's true that the ground plane is a greater distance from the top side and the bottom side, both of those distances are rather small! So it feels like a possible case of over-optimisation.

But the real answer would be in doing it both ways and measuring very carefully, and then, even if one case were slightly worse than the other, judging whether that worse case is actually important. Engineering is about judgements, a lot of the time. It's very rarely about minimising things at all costs.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:55 am 
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barrym95838 wrote:
Isn't a solid Vdd plane just as effective as a solid Vss plane for signal path returns?

only if it's bypassed to the ground plane next to every via transporting a signal from layer 1 to layer 4. If you can take the time to watch the long lecture videos, follow the links at the bottom of the 6502 primer's AC-performance page, after where it says "If you want to go further in understanding the matter of PCB transmission lines, layering, the importance of the return current's path, etc., here are some more videos I came across. They're long, but helpful." They have a lot of graphics, making a difficult subject not as difficult.

BigEd wrote:
Engineering is about judgements, a lot of the time

and applying that nebulous term "good engineering practice" when we can't adequately model and predict the behavior beforehand. :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2022 2:18 pm 
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Alright, quick update. My PCBs and Parts arrived. Tomorrow i will be soldering the whole thing and then report back.

i really hope this works at 25MHz. if it doesn't i'm gonna have a problem when trying to do a VGA Card due to it not being able to synchronize with the CPU.
i do have like 80kB of Dual Port RAM lying around, but the chips are massive and slow (55ns) so i wouldn't be able to do 320x200 @ 256 colors (which needs ~64kB of RAM) without the board getting very massive.
oh well i'll see how it goes. my 65C02 SBC surprised me in the past as well, being able to run 20MHz without issue.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2022 5:07 pm 
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Proxy wrote:
Alright, quick update. My PCBs and Parts arrived. Tomorrow i will be soldering the whole thing and then report back.

i really hope this works at 25MHz. if it doesn't i'm gonna have a problem when trying to do a VGA Card due to it not being able to synchronize with the CPU.
i do have like 80kB of Dual Port RAM lying around, but the chips are massive and slow (55ns) so i wouldn't be able to do 320x200 @ 256 colors (which needs ~64kB of RAM) without the board getting very massive.
oh well i'll see how it goes. my 65C02 SBC surprised me in the past as well, being able to run 20MHz without issue.


Ah yes, this reminds me of the great expression of well-being to tinkerers everywhere: "May the parts be with you." ;-p

Good luck on your build!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2022 3:46 pm 
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well that luck didn't last very long.

today work was a lot more stressful than expected, so i only had the last 1.5h of the day to work on the SBC, i only got this far:
Attachment:
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and most of that time was battling with the SRAM IC (SOJ package).
I honestly have no idea how i'm supposed to solder those. the pads are too small so i cannot even touch them with the soldering iron to put any solder on them (next revision will have new footprints with longer pads), and putting solder on each lead won't work either as it doesn't just flow down towards the pad.
i tried the flooding technique i read somewhere on here (where you hold the board vertical and drag the solder downwards with gravity) and while that it somewhat work, a lot of leads were still not connected and i had some solder stuck between 2 pads where it was really really difficult to remove from. (maybe i didn't use enough solder? not sure)
I only have a regular soldering station with a few tips. i do also have a hot air gun, but nothing to hold the IC in place while blasting it with air (plus i have no soldering paste)

so what's the trick with these? i would really like to continue using these SOJ SRAM IC in the future due to their speed and capacity, so i'm hoping there is a way to do it more easily.
and would larger/longer pads actually help (though i won't be ordering new PCBs just yet, i still want to get this one up and running).

some close up images (i only have my phone with 8x zoom, so they're pretty blurry):
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2022 5:58 pm 
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Proxy wrote:
i tried the flooding technique i read somewhere on here (where you hold the board vertical and drag the solder downwards with gravity) and while that it somewhat work, a lot of leads were still not connected and i had some solder stuck between 2 pads where it was really really difficult to remove from. (maybe i didn't use enough solder? not sure)

It's at viewtopic.php?p=48875#p48875 . The picture is two posts above that. You start with it horizontal when you're flooding the sides, making one huge solder bridge down each side, feeding lots of solder in. You turn it vertical later to run the soldering iron from top to bottom to remove the excess. If the iron's tip is about to drip, shake it off onto a surface that won't be damaged by the splash. It will be too much to wipe it off on a damp sponge. It's very wasteful of solder, but gets the job done neatly and quickly.

Quote:
I only have a regular soldering station with a few tips. i do also have a hot air gun, but nothing to hold the IC in place while blasting it with air (plus i have no soldering paste)

I don't use any of those.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2022 6:58 pm 
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Proxy wrote:
today work was a lot more stressful than expected, so i only had the last 1.5h of the day to work on the SBC...and most of that time was battling with the SRAM IC (SOJ package).

The pads need to be about 25 percent longer that you have them so enough exposed surface is present to make good contact with the soldering iron tip.

Back when I could see well enough to solder SOIC and SOJ packages, I applied some liquid flux to the pads before placing the part. Using some tweezers as a holding tool, I’d lightly press down on the top of the device and solder the diagonally opposite corners to hold it in place—the process was simply that of heating the pin and pad with a drop of solder on the soldering iron tip. The reflow on the PCB took care of the remaining solder that is needed.

Next, I’d use a drag technique to spread solder over the pins. being careful to wet both the pins and the pads. Sometimes this would produce bridges, which were easily cleaned up with desoldering braid. Once everything had cooled, I'd use the tip of a jeweler’s screw driver to clean the leftover flux from between the pins.

This video goes into some detail on how to solder small packages. Soldering a PLCC44 package is demonstrated. The SOJ package has the same pin type and pitch, so what is shown is applicable to what you are doing.

Here’s an SOJ36 SRAM after being manually soldered.

Attachment:
pcb_sram_close.gif
pcb_sram_close.gif [ 718.56 KiB | Viewed 807 times ]

Here’s the pad layout for the above package.

Attachment:
pcb_top_sram_detail.gif
pcb_top_sram_detail.gif [ 263.84 KiB | Viewed 807 times ]

BTW, you might find this to be of interest. Disregard the comments about obtaining solder paste—the product is a lot friendlier to handle than it was when the page was posted.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2022 2:40 am 
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I agree with the BDD's comment about needing larger pads so the soldering tip has a landing zone to make good contact with pads. Standard SMT library is for machine soldering so the pads are too small, you need to make a custom library for hand soldering. Many times I've observed PCB assemblers do drag soldering, but I'm too chicken to try it myself, so I still solder one pin at a time. Like BDD, I solder the corner pins first, apply liquid flux over pads and pins, then solder one pin at a time with fine solder tip. Picture shows both the SMT pad size and the fine, curved solder tip I used to solder SMT components.
Bill


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2022 8:27 am 
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Proxy wrote:
well that luck didn't last very long.

today work was a lot more stressful than expected, so i only had the last 1.5h of the day to work on the SBC, i only got this far:

and most of that time was battling with the SRAM IC (SOJ package).
I honestly have no idea how i'm supposed to solder those. the pads are too small so i cannot even touch them with the soldering iron to put any solder on them (next revision will have new footprints with longer pads), and putting solder on each lead won't work either as it doesn't just flow down towards the pad.
i tried the flooding technique i read somewhere on here (where you hold the board vertical and drag the solder downwards with gravity) and while that it somewhat work, a lot of leads were still not connected and i had some solder stuck between 2 pads where it was really really difficult to remove from. (maybe i didn't use enough solder? not sure)
I only have a regular soldering station with a few tips. i do also have a hot air gun, but nothing to hold the IC in place while blasting it with air (plus i have no soldering paste)

so what's the trick with these? i would really like to continue using these SOJ SRAM IC in the future due to their speed and capacity, so i'm hoping there is a way to do it more easily.
and would larger/longer pads actually help (though i won't be ordering new PCBs just yet, i still want to get this one up and running).

some close up images (i only have my phone with 8x zoom, so they're pretty blurry):


I found that thin solder (0.38mm) really helps with these. I set my iron tip on top of the leg to heat it up, and insert the solder between the pad and the leg. It works really well. I use the standard KiCad footprint.

Attachment:
IMG_6386.jpg
IMG_6386.jpg [ 841.9 KiB | Viewed 767 times ]

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2022 9:13 am 
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Welp my bad luck continues as I have apparently killed the soldering iron at work trying to do the solder flooding technique. :(

Now instead of showing the temperature the station just lights up all the displays elements until I disconnect the iron from the station, how does that even make sense?
Attachment:
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(The manual doesn't mention anything like this either)

Oh well, I'll have to order a replacement iron before anyone at work notices (because then I'd very very likely lose my soldering privileges, and I don't have the space for my own iron at home yet)

Before it died it did have some real issues keeping all the solder molten, its 80W but I wonder if the GND and Vcc planes sucked away too much heat for it to keep up, so it just died...? I'm not sure.

Either way before I got a new iron I won't be able to continue on this.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2022 9:21 am 
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I'm sure that had nothing to do with it. It was ready to die and was going to anyway. It was just your bad luck that it happened in your hands.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2022 9:32 am 
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But it's only 2 years old and wasn't used much within that time (I use it the most)... so it still seems strange.
How long do decent soldering irons usually last compared the station itself?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2022 12:34 pm 
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Your VCC/GND thermal relief spokes maybe too wide if the solder is not melting easily around the VCC and GND connections. The trace width of spoke should be 0.010" or less.

I bought my Metcal soldering station used 20 years ago. Used it frequently and have replaced the tips 4 times during the 20 years.
Bill


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2022 5:29 pm 
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Proxy wrote:
But it's only 2 years old and wasn't used much within that time (I use it the most)... so it still seems strange.
How long do decent soldering irons usually last compared the station itself?

I've never heard of soldering technique somehow killing the soldering iron. My Weller temperature-controlled soldering station (40 watt iron) is going on five years of continuous use without any problems. My secondary soldering station, also a Weller, also temperature-controlled and also 40 watts, is nearly 25 years old and is still doing fine.

I think you are simply the victim of a defective product.

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