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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 10:50 am 
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Hey all,

I've been looking at the power supply section in my 65C816 project, and I would like to add a fuse. I'm wondering what type of fuse would be appropriate, as I'm looking at a tripping power of around 2.5W (5V/500mA). I realize that's not a lot of power to blow a wire.
This fuse is for the CPU board only, so I don't think a lot of current will be consumed in normal operation. I'm guessing 100mA max but it is currently a bit hard to measure due to my breadboards being a mess. The whole computer is currently at 200mA including an LCD etc. One constraint is I don't want to use SMD components, and I would like something resettable, so I don't have to carry spare fuses. The goal is to protect the outputs of the CPU and glue logic from shorts in downstream circuits.

So after a bit of research, besides the plethora of SMD components that would be appropriate, I found these resettable fuses from Bourns, by searching for "low-voltage fuse" https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2283897.pdf
The most sensitive one has a 5 second trip time at 60V/0.5A according to the datasheet. Assuming this delay is proportional to the power, I calculated a 5 second trip time at 5V/6A. So that's obviously not appropriate for 500mA. Doesn't look like "low-voltage" to me :)
I'm not finding appropriate ratings either in the non-resettable category.

Anyone has a better component to recommend?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 1:00 pm 
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It's the current which blows the fuse, I think - there's very little voltage drop. So a 500mA fuse is what you want. The 60V rating is a maximum rating, I would say, which means you shouldn't use that fuse for mains voltages - not a restriction which applies here.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 2:09 pm 
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Duh, that makes total sense, thanks!
I since found this article that explains how these work https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/techni ... mentation/. My mistake was using the power supply voltage as the voltage drop across the fuse, which is of course incorrect.

So! Looking more at the datasheet for the Bourns' fuses, I'm surprised at the time these take to shut off. If I'm reading the "Typical Time to Trip at 23 ºC" graph right, the -R050 which has a "trip current" of 500mA takes ~50 seconds to trip at this current, and ~4 seconds at 1A. I would have to go to the -R017 to trip in ~10 seconds at 500mA, and this one can only sustain 170mA in normal use.

I wonder then how to pick a safe fuse value. How much time does it take to ruin the output of a chip at 500mA or 1A? I figure it is hard to tell. I see a maximum current rating of ±25mA for the 74AHCT245 I'm using for the buffer. Could it take 500mA for 50 seconds? :|

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 2:18 pm 
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Perhaps your voltage regulator can perform the current limiting action?
https://e2e.ti.com/blogs_/b/powerhouse/ ... rent-limit


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 2:29 pm 
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Interesting!

I don't have a regulator on that board at the moment, it expects a 5V power supply (USB, DC jack or bench power supply). Not sure I want to add the complexity.

The other issue I'm seeing is the resistance of the fuse, at these low current ratings we're looking at a couple of ohms. 3.2ohms for the -R017, that's 0.54V of drop @ 170mA. The 65C816 is specced down to 4.75V

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 2:47 pm 
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If it's the bus buffers you're trying to protect, a better strategy might be series termination resistors on the side of each buffer facing the expansion connectors. Those are probably a good idea anyway to minimize reflections. A 500mA fuse in the VDD line probably isn't enough to protect a 74AHCT245 - in principle that still allows a chip power dissipation of 2.5W, which I would imagine is enough to cook it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:12 pm 
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--- oops, deleted this as you've already mentioned polyfuses..

But I am surprised at the trigger speed - the ones on the Raspberry Pi seems fairly swift in my experience!

-Gordon

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:17 pm 
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kernelthread wrote:
If it's the bus buffers you're trying to protect, a better strategy might be series termination resistors on the side of each buffer facing the expansion connectors. Those are probably a good idea anyway to minimize reflections. A 500mA fuse in the VDD line probably isn't enough to protect a 74AHCT245 - in principle that still allows a chip power dissipation of 2.5W, which I would imagine is enough to cook it.


That's actually not a bad idea!

I hadn't given much thought to the expansion connector yet, so I'm just thinking out loud, but I could see having a dedicated buffer for each signal, with termination resistors. I'll have to put bi-directional buffers on the data bus, address bus, R/W, /RD, /WR and VA, to allow for DMA access, with DIR tied to BE. Then the rest can be unidirectional buffers. Haven't researched termination in detail yet either, but let's say with a 75 ohms termination resistor, it caps the output current to 66mA @ 5V. A bit higher than the max of 25mA, but 200 ohms termination maybe wouldn't be advised?

I think I will still put a fuse on the power input for more general protection, but I need to figure out a solution that doesn't add too much of a drop.

drogon wrote:
What about a "polyfuse" ?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse

They are often used on USB outlets on PCs and SBC devices like the Raspberry Pi use them on the inlet side too.

The resistance of them can be significant - one reason most modern Raspberry Pi PSUs output 5.2v now rather than just 5v.

-Gordon


Yes! The Bourns devices I'm talking about are of this kind. Interesting that the Raspberry Pi solves the drop issue by bumping up the voltage. I guess this explains why using only official power supplies is recommended

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:20 pm 
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This isn't quite my territory, but I did find one $1 low dropout regulator which provides current protection and is available in single-unit quantities:
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3118386.pdf
(XC6227 Series from Torex)

Looks like it drops 120mV or so, which is less than the fuse you mention. It's a six pin device but looks like it can simply be used as a three-terminal regulator.

It might be good for experienced people to chime in here!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:45 pm 
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akohlbecker wrote:
drogon wrote:
What about a "polyfuse" ?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse

They are often used on USB outlets on PCs and SBC devices like the Raspberry Pi use them on the inlet side too.

The resistance of them can be significant - one reason most modern Raspberry Pi PSUs output 5.2v now rather than just 5v.

-Gordon


Yes! The Bourns devices I'm talking about are of this kind. Interesting that the Raspberry Pi solves the drop issue by bumping up the voltage. I guess this explains why using only official power supplies is recommended


Ah - you picked up my post before I realised thats what you were in about in your first post and edited it out... anyway...

The very first Pi had a 500mA inlet polyfuse and 2 x 100mA polyfuses, one on each of the USB outlets. within days people were bypassing the USB ones and some people even running wires from the µUSB power inlet directly to the USB socket power pins to enable the Pi to power more power hungry keyboards, hubs and so on. The 2nd revision Pi didn't fit the USB polyfuses, just the main inlet one.

Later Pi's used a dedicated USB power controller (current limiter) device to protect the Pi (and possibly things like PCB tracks) from rogue USB devices... (and 'brown outs' when hot-plugging USB devices).

-Gordon

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 8:08 pm 
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I think Ed's idea of the current-limiting voltage regulator is probably the best. Fuses will rely on heating to cut off, which requires a voltage drop and also takes time, a lot more time than it takes a shorted output on an IC to blow, especially as the fuse is expected to only take a few millivolts and the IC needs to work on the full 5V. Fuses do take a lot of time to build up enough heat to blow or trip. I never thought much about it until I installed a small solar system at home to be a backup for when the utility goes down. I had thought that for example a 10A fast-blow AGC-series glass fuse blows quickly at 10A. Nope. It's made to handle 10A continually, and when you exceed that, how long it takes to blow depends on how much you exceed the rating. At 50% over, it still takes 10s to blow. If you want it to blow in 1s, it takes 23A. For 100ms, it takes 70A. For 10ms, it takes 300A. When I worked in applications engineering at the place that made VHF and UHF power transistors mostly for military radars and communications in the mid-1980's, I saw many times how transistors would blow in a couple of milliseconds if there was suddenly a bad load mismatch. Since we typically did our testing and development on transistors that were not capped yet, it could get rather spectacular.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 12:44 am 
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GARTHWILSON wrote:
I think Ed's idea of the current-limiting voltage regulator is probably the best. Fuses will rely on heating to cut off, which requires a voltage drop and also takes time, a lot more time than it takes a shorted output on an IC to blow...

I'll second Garth on that one.

In my (very long) experience working with solid state devices, I've never seen a fuse that was even close to being quick enough to break the circuit before damage was caused to the protected devices. The fastest fuses take milliseconds, damage can occur in microseconds.

If output short circuits are a concern, it would be better to use a power source that is current-limited. Even better would be to design the circuit to minimize exposure to that sort of thing. Some devices are automatically current-limiting due to design, but that isn't something that should be considered as primary protection.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:13 am 
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Just mulling over this, and with the idea that the question hasn't come up before, I was wondering whether a fuse is normally added to protect the electronics, or to protect the PSU. And then I had another thought: sometimes it's to protect the user and their home, because fuses are about preventing fire.

(In the case of polyfuses on USB connectors, I think it's about preventing some defective (cheap) peripheral causing damage to an expensive computer.)

So, mostly, we don't see retro designs with any protection. Very careful people with the resources will use a current-limited bench supply to bring up a new board. Everyone else does a quick smoke test - and eventually, perhaps, we learn to check and double-check our designs, and then the bare boards, and then the populated board, before powering up.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 12:18 pm 
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GARTHWILSON on Mon 11 Jul 2022 wrote:
how long it takes to blow depends on how much you exceed the rating.


The fuse blows after the circuit is destroyed. The fuse is mostly a courtesy to reduce electrical fire.

GARTHWILSON on Mon 11 Jul 2022 wrote:
transistors that were not capped yet, it could get rather spectacular.


On a more mundane level, 0402 LEDs are less than 1mm^3 of mostly plastic; typically held with a lower volume of solder. It requires an excess of less than 2 Joules to melt the solder and this may cause the LED to fall onto other electronics.

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