alright i got some sleep!
BigDumbDinosaur wrote:
Ø2 generation is an area in which I consider discrete parts to be preferable. If you run your clock source (e.g., a “can” oscillator) through a flip-flop, you will have a sharply-defined and symmetric two-phase clock at your disposal (clock symmetry becomes important as you close in on the 816’s maximum Ø2 rate). One phase, conventionally the Q output of the flop, is Ø2 and the other, /Q, is Ø1. See attached for an example.
You’d connect Ø1 directly to the 245’s /OE input. That will produce the fastest response to the change in the clock phase, typically around 4ns at 5 volts. Ø1 can also be used to gate the bank bit latches, which I presume are being synthesized in the CPLD.
yes the CPLD uses an interal 8 bit register to latch the Bank Address, in which case would there be any benefit of generating PHI1 in the first place?
because then i could use Dr Jefyll's single IC Clock Strteching circuit to generate PHI2 (and PHI2_VIA):
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5504and just pass that to the CPLD to be used for the Bank Latching (and generating the OE_MEM and WE_MEM signals).
the P0-3 inputs could be directly wired to the CPLDas well, so i can control the amount of stretching done depending on what device/address is accessed, or even have the CPU control it through the interal control register, (or just hardwire a value in the CPLD).
the original reason i wanted to have a selectable clock is because i knew using RDY on the 65816 was annoying, so i just wanted to throw that workload onto the CPU to deal with manually. but with a clock stretching circuit i no longer need multiple clock speeds.
plasmo wrote:
Bottom line is W65C816's 0.8Vcc high threshold is overly pessimistic.
So my current circuit would likely work perfectly fine. But I've already committed to the '245 due to the speed and fewer CPLD pins used.
GARTHWILSON wrote:
There's no simple way to do it that's perfect. The easiest would be to use a DC-10 barrel connector with a switch in it which disconnects the USB when a DC-10 plug is inserted; but there would be a short interruption when you insert or pull the plug. You could join them with Schottky diodes, something like a 1N5817, but then there would be a little voltage drop. You could compensate for it in the regulator from the DC-10 connector, but not from the USB which will already be a little low, as you pointed out.
Yea I think the simplest option is to just make USB data only, and use the Barrel Jack as the only power source, like I mentioned in a previous post the FT240X's datasheet has an example circuit for an externally powered configuration where it can even recognize if a USB cable is plugged in (by checking the USB Vcc pin). So I'll just be using that.
Also I cannot find any specific dimensions when searching for "DC-10" online. So I think I will just choose the 2.1mm DC jack standard, it seems to be the most common so finding wall adapters for it should be easy.
GARTHWILSON wrote:
The regulator you link to claims to be a low-dropout (LDO) linear regulator, and it will not bring the voltage back up to 5V, only bring it down to 5V if the input is sufficiently above that. This one is hardly "low-dropout" though, with its 1.2V typical drop at 800mA and an output transistor topology that's not the typical PNP with input on the emitter and output on the collector. LDOs can operate with a lower input than standard regulators, starting for example at 5.3V or more to get 5V rather the 7V or more required by a 7805. The lower input voltage will of course result in less heat. Note however that the requirements to keep LDOs stable are pretty stringent. It's easy to get the oscillating if you don't keep your nose clean. Follow the data sheet's recommendation closely regarding type and size of capacitors at the output. If you want it more foolproof, just use a 7805, LM340T, or LM317T, with adequate heat sinking.
Yea it's clear that when it comes to regulators kind of out of my element, I didn't even think they would need heat sinks because I doubt they would've drawn that much current.
The LM340T5.0 seems like a popular choice so I'll also go with that. When it comes to PCB placement I'll see if I can place it somewhere on the edge so I can screw a heatsink onto its back without interfering with another component.