daniMolina wrote:
Were you using some decent breadboard, or some Chinese 2$ stuff? The difference is huge, like.. huge!
Well, if you say so. I had two different boards from two different places, and two different price ranges. One was this super sturdy one from Radio Shack, had knobs on the top and a nice big metal plate on the bottom. Seemed high quality, it felt like high quality plugging things in. Problem is, when I jiggle wires, everything changes.
The second one I have is bigger, cheaper, but not $2 for sure.
You can mark it up to just a cheap board, but I've had a really bad run on two of them now. I didn't use a breadboard for my 6502 design, and it went pretty well (I switched two wires, all the rest worked). So perhaps I just gotta "do it", and start soldering like I did that one time. And if it doesn't work, try again.
George, my counters are all 74HC163's which are sync'd to the clock. But thinking back, that's probably why I had to reset the horizontal at 799 pixels because of that synchronous behavior of the reset. Ben Eater uses the exact time because he is using 74HC161's, which have an async reset.
As for the programmers, that's pretty neat! I have a regular Raspberry Pi, and I was using latches to triple-up on the data bus line on the GPIO pins. It works fine, but it's a pain to set up because the Pi needs it's own monitor and power source and a keyboard, and then I have to plug it into the breadboard. It's just unwieldy. Bill (plasmo) has been working on a EPROM programmer board, and I intend on using that when he's ready.
Thanks.
Chad