This puts a kink in one of my plans.

To keep the "obsoleted card" when somebody else buys the leading edge tech.

Say I buy "tally marks and glyphs" ( Numbers category / timeline).

But we go around the board and pass from the stone age to the iron age.

The leading edge tech is then "Practical Numbers" ( surveying , farm , trade , accounting), in the category/IPTimeline of "Numbers".

Say you land on it and (a) pay me rent, (b) choose to buy ( or pass ... But this is "monopoly" nobody ever passes), and so I flip the card and pass you the keyring. You pay the bank the purchase price.

In order to keep my idea, from before, I think each player should keep a pad and pen.

When the technology is obsoleted, they can write the two digit hex code on their pad. And keep those bits and bytes and nibbles for game (III). To program the center board.

Obviously, if I code this in python or android, as I now plan, it will be less cumbersome a game.

OK, heres a photo of my spreadsheet on my big screen TV.

Just

A. Numbers

B. Writing

C. Astronomy, Geography, and Horology

Please comment on any errors and omissions....

( try to avoid " YOU DUFUS ... You forgot the antikytheria. Machine .... Or the coligny calendar " I probably have antikytheria under mechanical computers category . I had C oligny calendar. But appear to have removed it?

I must have had a reason? Oh well? I forget?

One more. Category C. Time

I am half way through review of category D. Math

OK. Just a few more items for today.

I made the "Numbers" Bmp into a png and can post.

Also took a pic of some of the op code cards. Haven't designed them yet. The BNVDIC has a 7th bit? The - bit ?

I forget what that means?

But should include it.

The op codes are grouped into color groups based on their general functions ... Loads, stores, branches ... Etc

If I understood the question, I think you forgot Z, which is set for a zero result and cleared for a non-zero result. Its primary use is to set the stage for BNE and/or BEQ.

_________________
Got a kilobyte lying fallow in your 65xx's memory map? Sprinkle some VTL02C on it and see how it grows on you!

Mike B. (about me) (learning how to github)

Thanks. Shelved the project while I work as my own immigration lawyer / sherpa / self-flagellator. Hehehe . JK. But actually truer than I care to admit.

I'll "Z" the design for the op code cards, soon. I would have run into it again as I re-learn 6502 assembly. Refresher course needed.

I have a 6502 emulator on my phone. I should practice at boring bus stops / subway rides.

I think if I make the pockets for the center board, and a RAM card for one player, I can start to "debug" my "Game III." , 6502-opoly ( Game I is Technopoly ; Game II is Tech-volution).

P.S. since I might have to "run from Johnny law", or at least, walk briskly after my hearing, I should upload my novice-novice-novice python program and designs and plans, to a github; Python code and maybe android / java?

I am hopeless at java right now? Barely got my development IDE stuff set up.

But python is passable if I just rob what other people on you tube are doing.

But I should definitely github the bmps at high res ; and maybe some at low res for different parts of the game. Or different file formats that work better with each different language.

So my question.

Anybody have any quick advice about setting up a github? I've never done it before?

I'll dump the rudimentary python code here, at least.

And maybe over at the tinycore Linux raspberry pi forum.

I post there too for my StrongAI project.

( I REALLY need grad school and COLLEAGUES to STOP being a dabbler and GET serious !)

Here's a t-shirt I made.

Tell me if it's offensive? Funny? Historically inaccurate?

I think it's mostly funny. But maybe a little bit the other two things.

Whoops wrong design. Rough draft. Final draft has their cartoon selves too.

Sorry. Low fi. A picture of a picture.

A few more general nerd t shirts.

I'm especially proud of a college student Linus Torvalds drinking a beer while Charlie Brown Stallman tells him what GNU / Linux is all about.

It's just three simple steps:
- create an account and login
- create a repository (green 'New' button) and give it a name
- upload a zip file of your project, preferably a zip of all your sources but not your binaries.

At that point you can tweak what you have, adding or removing files, uploading new versions, editing in the browser.

I've been learning to use KiCAD. It is a truly appalling program. However, I've discovered that KiCAD is better for designing front panels and board games than its intended purpose of circuit design.

While experimenting with KiCAD's electronic component foot-print editor, I found that it is easy to create one board game square as a "component" and then insert multiple copies into a "circuit board" layout. I was quite surprised about insertion functionality, although it is very welcome. KiCAD has a certain formality and nannying approach and many people are under the false impression that it not possible to skip schematic design within KiCAD. Thankfully, the foot-print editor allows any component to be inserted into a board layout whether or not it appears in a circuit schematic.

It is rather fiddly to design "components" in KiCAD and my example should probably be discarded. Regardless, once the tedious part of game square design has been completed, it is quite easy to stamp the squares wherever they are required. Doodling in software, I began designing a Ludo board. A similar work-flow could be used to design Monopoly variants, although significant forward planning is required.

Circuit design software contains features which are particularly suited to the design of a Monopoly board. For example, circuit design software typically handles text in four orientations with greater ease than many graphic design programs. In some regards, it is easier to design a board game in KiCAD rather than GIMP or Adobe Illustrator. Unfortunately, KiCAD has a maddening lack of rulers or guides. Also, output formats are unconventional.

Palette may be limited and great care is required to obtain the correct definition of copper, tinning, solder mask and silk screen. Ignoring this, it is relatively easy to design vector artwork for a board game which can then be manufactured in suitably durable materials. It also opens the possibility of affordable hobbyist board games which incorporate a large number of electronic components. This is particularly true if components, such as surface mount diodes, are part of an out-sourced manufacturing process.

Historically, a disproportionate number of chess computers have been based on 6502. For a 6502-opoly game, it would be possible to include a real 6502, either as part of a kit or pre-assembled. The squares around the edge of the Monopoly board may be wired with shift registers or wired like a keyboard matrix. In the middle, a 6502, keypad and LCD display may provide game functions such as financial balances or the selection of "Community Chest" cards. The latter is not restricted by the historical cost of card deck manufacture and may be significantly more varied.

For the advanced game, the 6502 may provide a Turing complete virtual machine. I strongly recommend against a full 6502 implementation due to the relative regularity of opcodes. A skewed subset or fictitious processor architecture may provide superior play.

It is relatively easy to write 6502 opcodes using other opcodes. An example is the ROR bug workaround. This leads to the problem that any race to obtain a working set of opcodes may fail to teach assembly programming. Or it may fail to teach good practice. It may be preferable to consider a deliberately rickety Mouse Trap arrangement where players have to escape a trap. This also leads to the very binary outcome of winners and losers.

An alternative suggestion for out-sourced board game manufacture is a chess computer. This would work particularly well nowadays, given that it is possible to obtain very affordable circuit boards with black solder mask and white silk screen. To economize, it is possible to design a 4*4 section of chess board at 100mm*100mm and then get four or five copies manufactured. Indeed, a fifth board may be used to affix the other four into an 8*8, 200mm*200mm board. I believe this costs five dollars excluding shipping, diodes or glue. For game pieces, I recommend 3D printing, imitation Lego, or a mix of both. Specifically, each piece may have a Lego base and a 3D printed crown or similar. To make an electrical contact, it is possible to glue a coin onto the bottom of each piece.

If you're in Europe or some other nannying jurisdiction, remember to order lead free game boards. You may also want to glue all parts of the game pieces together.

_________________
Modules | Processors | Boards | Boxes | Beep, Beep! I'm a sheep!

Bleep bleep, sheep, I didn't have KiCAD but I had some horrendous free android program back in 2018-2019 on my (Walmart) RCA brand ( 150$-175$) "netbook".

What a horrible machine and a horrible PCB program to go with it.

But I did start drawing a technopoly board that would be copper traces on a glass board. But I wanted it with thousands of little LEDs too ( a 100 at least). And glass is unhappy with drilling.

So then I thought a 20" x20" ( or two 20" x 10" that can fold together for easy stirage) regular PCB would be better.

But then the netbook crapped out (non replaceable battery, I'll wager? Or power supply?) And much data lost. But it wasn't my serious work computer so I didn't care.

I do have a backup file somewhere?. The traces around "boardwalk" , or any square, can just be left with a gap so that the circuit only goes where you want it to.

Thank you for all the suggestions. Many of them, of definite quality, but probably lost on me. ( novice programmer so I'm not sure how program play should differ from regular programming?)

I will read the comments several times, as I have stalled on my design of both games 2 and 3, and could use some redirection or motivation.

I should probably re read my last 20 or 50 posts here, and then see if I can't "crowd source" some help to the Game II.

The historical game.

16 best inventions of 22 technologies. I'll need people to vote on the best ones; and on the final results of the ones I have picked. I have "Numbers", "Letters" and "Time" completed. I think. I'll post those.

352 total. I probably have a list of 320 or 330 solid good ones.

And another 60 that are just fillers until I find something better.

I don't think I've placed the entire list here.

I've also been derailed on the git hub.

I got to some glitch where my new account was not allowed to post code.

When I went to the internet for help somebody said the first commit is hardest but the glitch fixes itself after that?

That didn't sound normal or true. But I didn't have the time to mess with it.

So python technopoly has stalled too.

And Android technopoly is barely conceived of.

Might be biting off more than I can chew in Android / java ?

I would love a 6502 assembly version of 6502 technopoly.

But for what platform? Commodore 64? Nintendo ROM? Atari ROM?

My own platform I guess? Along the lines of a hardware LED LCD 650w proc run electronic board? As sheep suggested?

Anyhoo. Thanks sheep. I thought along these lines before :

"
Historically, a disproportionate number of chess computers have been based on 6502. For a 6502-opoly game, it would be possible to include a real 6502, either as part of a kit or pre-assembled. The squares around the edge of the Monopoly board may be wired with shift registers or wired like a keyboard matrix. In the middle, a 6502, keypad and LCD display may provide game functions such as financial balances or the selection of "Community Chest" cards. The latter is not restricted by the historical cost of card deck manufacture and may be significantly more varied.

"

I think games I, II and III should stay the same ... Whether played traditional with boards and cards or played in a half-digital board like the one we are discussing, or played in full computer version.

I have several boards in my room finished. 4 of them.

I'd like to send one to the Mensch in chief .

And probably Woz the Wiz?

Nice holiday gifts.

Any body know the Woz press agent / contact address, shoot me a PM?

If not I'll wing it with the internet ( like all the other stalkers).


P.S. copper bottom playing pieces could increase the capacitance of an underlayer ( second side) copper pad , indicating to 6502 processor where all pieces are on the board.

A finished board with and without cards stuffed into pockets/registers.

NOTE : cards wrong size and not opcode cards. I didn't have any handy at the moment.

P.S. phone still flipping photos sideways on me? Sorry. I'll figure it out next time.

The ALU must be bigger. And the opcide and / or data cards must slide in there too !