Cold solder joint on the CPU Vss pin. Gremlins were visible probing the chip pin directly, but not the rail immediately adjecent. It was additionally pre-confirmed when poking it with the scope probe ended up mechanically banishing the gremlins during the debugging session. Percussive maintenance is real.
Thank you everyone for your help. "Hello, world!" is go!
On the scope: for timing relationships (assuming gremlins are not visiting) I'm using a cheap USB logic analyser. It's running 16M samples / s, but my timings are plenty padded right now, so it is plenty resolution, because I'm not looking for fractional timing misses (yet).
I did use phi2 as an external trigger when looking just now and I was useful. I should buy a third probe so I can use both traces and the trigger at the same time.
On the 74 series chips, I'm using all HC series, so fast, but not too fast
Thanks again all!