Dan Moos wrote:
Ok, I'm leaning more towards having a PCB fabbed instead of DIY. Basically, having a four-layer board with ground and Vcc planes is too convenient. I just about have the thing routed, and I was able to keep the whole thing on a 100 x 100 mm board, which is a serious price point change at PCB way (only place I've looked at so far).
I've always DIY'd my PCBs. I'm worried I won't give them what they need, so I want to check with you guys.
I'm using Kicad. Let's assume that before I create a Gerber, my stuff has passed all ERC and DRC checks.
I always do my DRC visually, one layer at a time, scanning the board in strips. My CAD has DRC, but I'm always doing unconventional things it doesn't understand, and on a very complex board I could get thousands of lines of supposed DRC violations that aren't true violations at all.
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I'm going with 10 mil traces/10 mil clearance. That seems to be well within the lower price point of places I've looked at, and was something I knew I could DIY if I went that way.
All the board houses I've ever dealt with, both professionally and hobby, would go down to .006"/.006" without charging extra. Below that, they do charge extra, but they could do .002"/.002" or smaller—
if you want to pay.
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What's a good VIA hole/ring size?
For .062"-thick boards, I do .015" vias, and for .032"-thick, I do .008" vias. I think most board houses can reliably do smaller ones now without charging extra. The aspect ratio is the issue. As for the pad size, I have always gone with .020 bigger than the finished hole size. The hole has to be bigger when they initially drill it, because subsequent plating makes it smaller; and the size of the pad needs to be larger than the initial drill size plus inaccuracies in drill indexing so that the thru-plating will have a nice "rivet" effect, and make sure that a trace coming to the hole doesn't just fall down into the hole but goes to a ring. DirtyPCBs apparently uses quite a few different board manufacturers, directing jobs to various ones depending on what's in your design and maybe how busy each board manufacturer is. I have gotten one or two boards where the holes were not centered as well in the pad as I would like, but I can't complain since the price is so extremely cheap and there was no real problem. I'm glad I made the pads .020" bigger than the holes though. So a .015 via gets a .035" pad, and a .008" via gets a .028" pad. There's the space around the pad to consider too, which you have to have regardless; so you don't save much board space, percentagewise, by going to a smaller hole.
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I wanna make sure I do all the steps. Let's say I've routed, and passed DRC. What else remains? I outlined my board with the User Drawing Layer, but I'm not clear where I actually tell the fab house my intended board dimensions.
In hobby, my last few boards have been done by DirtyPCBs. They tell you what they want, and what extension to put on the file for each layer and the drill file and drill table. They want a separate gerber for the outline, and of course another one for each layer, including soldermasks (top and bottom) and legends. So if you have a four-layer board with one legend (top only) and soldermasks different between top and bottom (which it would be if you have any surface-mount), you will normally have these files:
- outline gerber file
- legend gerber file
- top soldermask gerber file
- top copper layer gerber file
- 2nd copper layer gerber file
- 3rd copper layer gerber file
- bottom copper layer gerber file
- bottom soldermask gerber file
- drill table excellon file (telling the drill size for each tool)
- drill file excellon file (telling the X-Y coordinates of each hole, and which drill bit to use for it)
Then zip them.
If it's for a more-professional board house, I write up a readme.txt file with manufacturing instructions; but DirtyPCBs says don't bother because no one will look at it anyway. If it were for automated assembly of SMT parts, there will also be a solderpaste gerber file (two if you put parts on both sides), and an XYRS for placing the parts; but these two are for the assembler, not the board manufacturer.
I did one prototype board for my work recently with DirtyPCBs too, but they won't do production quantities. It's nice to have these cheap suppliers for simple boards. 25 years ago, a tiny, simple 2-sided board would cost a minimum of $450 for first article—and that was back when that was more money than it is today. The most complex board I ever did (500 parts, 1500 holes, 12 layers) was $2000 for first article, in 1993.