Arlet wrote:
Sounds like tedious work. How long would it take you to route a board such as banedon posted earlier in this thread ?
I'm terrible at estimating how much time it will take to do something. The tedious part is that I'm always trying to fit everything like a puzzle to make maximum use of board space. No bare-board space on the component side. Sometimes I find I have to move a component over by .002" to get a trace in, which requires moving the next component, and so on, rippling through, because I didn't foresee something.
Aslak3 wrote:
barrym95838 wrote:
You may also benefit from the knowledge that your SRAM doesn't care about the ordering of the address and data signals, which may allow you to rotate it 180° in relation to the other large DIPs ... it could in some cases be enough to make a routing more efficient.
*lightbulb moment*
This is really useful to know. I had not considered this trick,
You'll find lots of tips like this in the "Tip of the Day" column, at
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=342 . Others are in the
6502 primer.
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I find grids, and fixed angles, useful. How do you keep bus traces equidistance without a grid?
It's pretty easy. I'm always looking at the X/Y numbers at the bottom of the screen. Pressing "O" sets the origin for measurement wherever the cursor is, so moving to another point tells the X and Y distance to that point. Pressing the cursor keys goes .001" at a time if you don't hold one long enough for auto-repeat. The corner keys on the number keypad (which I never keep in number-lock) moves the cursor at 45° angles. An easy way to verify that a trace will fit through a tight space is to press two keys to increase its width by the amount you want the space to be, and and see if the trace overlaps anything. I use the keyboard constantly when laying out PCBs. It's not just a mouse activity.
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Yes, I could not work like that either. I went from gEDA "pcb", which has a manual DRC report to KiCADs continuous enforcement and I would not want to go back. Yet alone not having a DRC at all...
Often it's nice to have the option to solve problems in ways the writers of the CAD software did not anticipate the user doing. One reason I like my old, cheap CAD is that it doesn't try to second-guess me and tell me, "You can't do that!" like OrCAD did at my last place of work, where I always wanted to tell it, "I know what I'm doing, and I have a plan. Just do what I tell you!" Part of it is this: I've mentioned several times that there are a lot of tricks you can pull if you know the gerber "language." Gerber files are plain text, and you can edit them with a text editor. Even with a cheap, simple CAD, you can for example use a layer which, instead of being copper, will be for "anti-copper," and copy and paste that file into a copper layer's file, putting it between %LPC*% (for "layer polarity clear") and %LPD*% (for "layer polarity dark") commands after laying down copper, possibly before laying down more copper. Now you can use this "anti-copper" layer to shave a little bit off a pad for example, to squeeze another trace past it. I add comment lines (which start with "G04") in the gerber file to tell what I did.
If there's an NC pin (or a pin you won't use) on an IC and you need its space to get another trace through, you can go ahead and route the trace where you want it, and then remove the line in the gerber file that put the pad in the way, and you won't have to make another version of the PCB component that lacks that pad. (If it's a thru-hole component and you eliminate the hole too, you'll have to cut that lead off when you assemble the board, which may not be cost-effective for production, but it's no big deal if you're building only a few boards. If it's SMT, don't forget to remove the pad from the soldermask and solderpaste files.) There are all kinds of tricks like this that you can do. I always re-check everything with the gerbv free gerber viewer software anyway before sending files to the board house.
Edit, 12/1/16: I see there's a free 3D online gerber viewer at
http://mayhewlabs.com/3dpcb .
The RS-274X standard that I printed out for myself is no longer at the URL I got it from, but
http://www.artwork.com/index.htm has lots of gerber resources. Maybe it's hiding there.
http://www.artwork.com/gerber/appl2.htm has the basic D codes.
http://www.artwork.com/gerber/274x/rs274x.htm tells about converting the old 274D standard to the newer, more capable and more foolproof 274X standard.
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Is anyone aware of any books (or online guides, I guess) that cover PCB design techniques?
The ones I've seen are pretty lame. Just practice and practice.