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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:49 am 
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I finally decided to build a PID hotplate. PID controllers are very cheap (see EBay and Amazon), and so are cartridge heaters. Today I drilled my aluminium block:
Attachment:
hotplate.1.jpg
hotplate.1.jpg [ 43.43 KiB | Viewed 1270 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:20 pm 
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enso wrote:
I finally decided to build a PID hotplate. PID controllers are very cheap (see EBay and Amazon), and so are cartridge heaters. Today I drilled my aluminium block:
Attachment:
hotplate.1.jpg

Can you explain a little more about what it is we are viewing? What is this device supposed to do?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:36 pm 
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It's a chunk of aluminum that can be heated up using the two heater cartridges in the picture. You put the PCB on the block, with the BGA in its correct position, and then you crank up the heat. The heat will transfer through the PCB, and melt the solder balls. At least, that's what I figured.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 6:44 pm 
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Arlet wrote:
It's a chunk of aluminum that can be heated up using the two heater cartridges in the picture. You put the PCB on the block, with the BGA in its correct position, and then you crank up the heat. The heat will transfer through the PCB, and melt the solder balls. At least, that's what I figured.

I thought BGA assembly was done in a reflow oven like for other SMT designs.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 6:52 pm 
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It could be done in a reflow oven, but this is a good alternative. One of the problems with an IR oven is that the heat for the balls has to go through the package, which will then become very hot. This is especially problematic for lead-free soldering. In the industry, these are best done with a vapor phase reflow oven, but these are not within reach of the hobby budget :)

A hot plate is also nice and small, so you could put it on your desk and watch the solder melt.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:22 pm 
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Arlet wrote:
It could be done in a reflow oven, but this is a good alternative. One of the problems with an IR oven is that the heat for the balls has to go through the package, which will then become very hot. This is especially problematic for lead-free soldering. In the industry, these are best done with a vapor phase reflow oven, but these are not within reach of the hobby budget :)

A hot plate is also nice and small, so you could put it on your desk and watch the solder melt.

It seems the same could be accomplished with an electric skillet.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:41 pm 
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Thanks Arlet, I couldn't have explained better myself.

A skillet will work, although not as well as it is usually made of thinner material and the heater runs in a loop, heating unevenly. A skillet also has a very annoying rim that burns you every time (I have scars to prove it). Flat griddles are more convenient, but generally don't heat well enough (I had to keep one board on it for about 10 minutes before anything melted).

A PID controller with a thermocouple sensor will keep the temperature exactly where I want it.

In addition to replacing an oven as Arlet described, it can be set to a lower temperature to preheat the board closer to solder melting point, and use an iron or a hot air pencil to push solder over the melting point very quickly and with low thermal shock to the parts.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:36 pm 
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enso wrote:
Thanks Arlet, I couldn't have explained better myself.

A skillet will work, although not as well as it is usually made of thinner material and the heater runs in a loop, heating unevenly. A skillet also has a very annoying rim that burns you every time (I have scars to prove it). Flat griddles are more convenient, but generally don't heat well enough (I had to keep one board on it for about 10 minutes before anything melted).

A PID controller with a thermocouple sensor will keep the temperature exactly where I want it.

In addition to replacing an oven as Arlet described, it can be set to a lower temperature to preheat the board closer to solder melting point, and use an iron or a hot air pencil to push solder over the melting point very quickly and with low thermal shock to the parts.

OIC. How do you plan to insulate it from the tabletop so ugly scorch marks don't appear? Also, what's the KW rating of the heating elements?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:44 pm 
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Two 300W cartridge heaters should do the trick. The end result should look something like this:
Attachment:
pid_hotplate.jpg
pid_hotplate.jpg [ 22.99 KiB | Viewed 1225 times ]

For more info, see this http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/

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