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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:07 pm 
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BigEd wrote:
Here's a set of articles about using a toaster oven to perform reflow soldering:

- Reflow oven controller by Dan Strother
- Have you seen my new soldering Iron? by Kenneth Maxon
- Screen Print and Reflow SMT Boards at Home by Bob Rooks (mentions a temperature-indicating crayon)
- Surface Mount Prototype Soldering by Darrell Harmon

(BDD has previously provided one of these links, but I thought it worthwhile to start a new thread)

Dan Strother seemed set to reflow an interesting BGA-packaged FPGA design but hasn't reported on results yet.

Also see this U-Toobe video of a toaster-oven reflowing parts. The author discusses the process and also provides the temperature profile he used.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:19 pm 
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BigEd wrote:
Dan Strother seemed set to reflow an interesting BGA-packaged FPGA design but hasn't reported on results yet.

I wouldn't hold my breath. The last update on the site is from June 2011. Too bad, because I was curious about his results.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:46 pm 
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Indeed.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:49 pm 
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Sparkfun has a reflow oven tutorial:

http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/60


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:55 pm 
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I don't know about ovens, especially for reflow. What if you've got plastic connectors onboard after a suspected failure of BGA mount? They're going to melt.

Take, for example, a person trying to make a video board trying to tackle BGA mounting. In order for a first test, one needs the JTAG and DB15 VGA connectors along with the BGA soldered. If the project doesn't work, what will be the first and final suspect if the circuit doesn't work, especially if it has progressed from a previous successful design based on QFP IC packages and the only detail that's changed is a BGA IC for the FPGA, or some other IC?

For this reason, I would lean towards a SMT reflow station with a hot air gun. These stations are cheap, usually come equipped with a soldering iron with many size tips, both for the iron and the air gun, and have temp control for both.

However, since my experience is/has been mainly QFP where the conductive metal leads stick out and absorb the heat before the QFP plastic package, I would be worried about heating up the plastic BGA package, in the same manner, to a point before the balls underneath start to melt.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 1:53 pm 
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I've been building a reflow oven at my local Hackspace using a £25 Argos toast oven and a bit of electronics. We salvaged a solid state relay from an old laboratory sample robot.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:07 pm 
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ElEctric_EyE wrote:
I don't know about ovens, especially for reflow. What if you've got plastic connectors onboard after a suspected failure of BGA mount? They're going to melt.

Yes, at that point you're looking for a rework solution. I think reflow makes sense for the initial soldering. I can imagine you might only reflow one or a few SMD parts and then do the rest manually.

For hot air rework, I think there are special nozzles for heating just the pins of a QFP type package. You are meant to make a thermal shield to protect other parts on the board.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:13 pm 
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I have a cheap hot air gun that I use mostly for desoldering large devices. I just use a round nozzle, and aim it on the center of the device until it gets hot enough to come off. I then usually throw the device away, and put on a new one. When I first got the hot air machine, I tried soldering stuff, but I abandoned that plan quickly. Getting an even temperature just above the melting point, only at the right place is difficult. And with lead free soldering, there's not much room between the melting point, and the point where stuff gets overheated.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:29 pm 
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Quote:
And with lead free soldering, there's not much room between the melting point, and the point where stuff gets overheated.

Depending on what it is, you may not need to worry about it too much. At a previous job in the mid-1980's I sometimes did thermal scanning with an infrared microscope on power transistor dice, and actually saw transistors operating (not just in storage) at over 350°C, dissipating hundreds of watts in a package the size of my fingernail.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 4:56 am 
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GARTHWILSON wrote:
Arlet wrote:
And with lead free soldering, there's not much room between the melting point, and the point where stuff gets overheated.

Depending on what it is, you may not need to worry about it too much. At a previous job in the mid-1980's I sometimes did thermal scanning with an infrared microscope on power transistor dice, and actually saw transistors operating (not just in storage) at over 350°C, dissipating hundreds of watts in a package the size of my fingernail.

Actually, Arlet's concerns are valid. While the silicon die itself and (usually) the internal interconnects can withstand pretty high temperatures, the package may not. Commercial reflow processes, from what I've learned from various sources, pretty much limit the peak temperature to 450° F (218° C) and rarely exceed a minute while in the reflow range. Lead-free reflow is trickier yet, as Arlet noted, and I doubt that an amateur-built reflow oven will be sufficiently precise to assure quality solder joints, yet avoid device and/or PCB damage.

On the subject of the control kit sold by Sparkfun (on which a number of complaints have been posted on their site), I'm not at all convinced that it is necessary to butcher up a toaster-oven just to add a control device that doesn't do anything that can't be done with the toaster-oven's built in controls and a timer. The Proctor-Silex oven I purchased checked out as surprisingly accurate, which I determined with a borrowed laser pyrometer. As I mentioned before, I put a quarter-inch aluminum plate into the oven to add thermal inertia and to assure even heating of the PCB. Pointing the laser at the plate, I got a reading of 398° F with the oven set to 400° F, an error of 0.5 percent. At a 450° F setting (somewhat above lead/tin reflow temperature) the pyrometer indicated 447° F, a 0.67 percent error. I seriously doubt that Sparkfun's kit would perform any better at temperature regulation.

As for the time vs. temperature aspect of reflow, a cheap digital kitchen timer works just fine. The entire reflow process is carried out in four stages, which are readily timed by almost any timekeeper. I don't think any more complexity will assure better results. Don't forget that what we are doing is not mass production, so mass production techniques are not at all necessary. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:27 am 
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Yes, proceeding manually sounds viable to me (reminds me of the darkroom)

That crayon which indicates the reaching of a critical temperature looks good: all you then need to manage is the ramp-up rate. Can probably assume it's linear, and adjusting it by adding thermal mass is a good trick. Alternatively, just cycle the power at some estimated duty cycle.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:36 am 
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Also important is a fairly steep cool down phase, so adding a fan to the oven is probably a good idea. A faster cool down rate yields a better metal structure in the solder joint. Of course, you don't want temperature shocks either, so it should be fast but controlled and evenly distributed.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:42 am 
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This is all very good information.
Arlet wrote:
Also important is a fairly steep cool down phase, so adding a fan to the oven is probably a good idea. A faster cool down rate yields a better metal structure in the solder joint. Of course, you don't want temperature shocks either, so it should be fast but controlled and evenly distributed.

So, if one were using a hot plate, that should be removed in the cool down phase preferrably without opening the door. Also, the fan should be sucking hot air out? I would assume a type of sliding door before the fan too.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:05 am 
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ElEctric_EyE wrote:
So, if one were using a hot plate, that should be removed in the cool down phase preferrably without opening the door. Also, the fan should be sucking hot air out? I would
assume a type of sliding door before the fan too.

When the solder is still liquid, you'd need a fan so you can cool without disturbing the board. Sucking the air out would probably be good, although it would require a fan that can withstand the heat. Blowing cold air avoids that, but you need to be careful not to blow cold air on the board directly to avoid temperature shocks. As soon as the solder has solidified, you can open the door to speed up the process.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:18 am 
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Arlet wrote:
..you can open the door to speed up the process.


That's what we do ;-)

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