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 Post subject: Semi-Permanent Jumpers
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2022 5:26 pm 
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Hello everyone!

General question, want to see how you approach a particular problem:

I want to have an option in hardware, between this circuit or that circuit on a printed board. Say to light up an LED, I could use either PA1 or PA2 on a VIA (silly example). How can I decide in hardware how to do that?

Options (that I know of):

1) Solder Jumper. Basically some pads on one side of the board, and I either connect these two pads together, or those two pads together. This option is fairly permanent, unless you get the solderwick out.

2) 2.54 mm Jumper. Have some exposed pins, and place a jumper between them. This option is easily changeable, but I don't like that the tiny little jumper could possibly get lost. I have tiny kids, and tiny toys tend to get lost in tiny mouths!

3) SPDT switch. I use one for switching the power on or off on my board right now. This option is neat, and nothing can get lost, but takes up board space and is (relatively) expensive in comparison to the other two.

I guess there are smaller SPDT's out there like this one:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CT ... 7g7Q%3D%3D

But I'm still wondering if there is another option.

I'm looking for a "middle of the road" option. I don't like the permanence of just using solder, but I don't like the fact that tiny jumpers can be lost, and I don't like how many SPDT's are kindof big. Is there something you've seen or used that could be another option?

Thanks for any thoughts!

Chad


Last edited by sburrow on Thu Oct 27, 2022 9:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2022 7:12 pm 
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The pretty-standard way is the .025" square posts on .100" centers with the little jumpers that plug onto them. There are smaller versions too, like .020 square posts on .079" (2mm) centers, and, I guess, even smaller on .050" (1.27mm) if you've found them. (I don't remember having looked for any that small myself.) The jumpers, especially the last ones, are probably small enough that if a tot swallows them, it should go right through without causing any problems, particularly if they have a few microinches of gold plating rather than lead, cadmium, or other toxic metal. It shouldn't be any trouble to keep adults' and kids' toys separate though. :lol:
Attachment:
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Another possibility is to forgo the pins and just solder a jumper wire, which surprisingly can be even easier than a solderblob jumper. Yet another is to have a thru-plated hole that you just drill the thru-plating out of if you don't want the connection. If you later want it again, you can put a wire in the hole and solder it on both sides of the board.

DIP switches are another possibility, but they take more room.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2022 7:54 pm 
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I tend to use .1" (2.54mm) jumpers or dip switches. As Garth shows jumpers do not have to get lost. Dip switched are best for frequent, quick changes but are more expensive both to buy and in terms of layout real estate.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2022 9:29 pm 
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First, thank you for reminding me of the correct size: 2.54 mm is what I meant! I edited the first post accordingly.

Second, thank you Garth. Yes, a child consuming a little piece like that won't *really* affect them. But I cannot easily separate 'toys' because I'm using these computers with my daughter on a near daily basis. My 2 yo boy has already ripped the LED off of the computer, I'm sure those radial capacitors look mighty fine as well I'm sure.

BillO wrote:
I tend to use .1" (2.54mm) jumpers or dip switches. As Garth shows jumpers do not have to get lost. Dip switched are best for frequent, quick changes but are more expensive both to buy and in terms of layout real estate.


Right, you seem to see the point Bill, thank you. The easier to change, the more expensive in money or real estate.

Garth again thank you for the ideas, I'll be considering those as well. I'm willing to hear if someone else has another idea! Thank you all.

Chad


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2022 7:55 am 
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Here's an idea which is at least different: use a trim pot as a switch, by adjusting a pullup or pulldown into a digital gate which can then digitally control the routing of some signal.

Another idea: just build two boards, one each way.

But if you don't plan to change your mind too many times, I'd say a wire link between two pads, which you can snip, or replace.

The little DIP switches are probably good enough for most purposes - they might not have 10000 cycles in them, but you're unlikely to change your mind as often as that.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2022 3:06 pm 
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Thank you Ed!

BigEd wrote:
Here's an idea which is at least different: use a trim pot as a switch, by adjusting a pullup or pulldown into a digital gate which can then digitally control the routing of some signal.


You know, that is a GREAT idea. It's like a lightbulb turned on, I definitely think I can use this for this very particular situation. Thank you Ed, that was great!

Quote:
Another idea: just build two boards, one each way.


True!

Quote:
But if you don't plan to change your mind too many times, I'd say a wire link between two pads, which you can snip, or replace.

The little DIP switches are probably good enough for most purposes - they might not have 10000 cycles in them, but you're unlikely to change your mind as often as that.


Thank you, good suggestions Ed. I appreciate the feedback. I hope to show results to a lot of my little questions soon in the future.

Chad


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2022 5:36 pm 
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BigEd wrote:
The little DIP switches are probably good enough for most purposes - they might not have 10000 cycles in them, but you're unlikely to change your mind as often as that.

...and if you do change your mind that often, you probably should seek professional help. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2022 12:13 am 
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BigDumbDinosaur wrote:
...and if you do change your mind that often, you probably should seek professional help. :D
What if you're unable to decide whether to seek professional help?? :cry:

Jeff :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2022 12:28 am 
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Dr Jefyll wrote:
BigDumbDinosaur wrote:
...and if you do change your mind that often, you probably should seek professional help. :D
What if you're unable to decide whether to seek professional help?? :cry:

Jeff :mrgreen:


Y'all are funny :)

Attached is picture of the outcome of what I was working on. I have a monochrome display planned, and I was wanting ways change the monochrome color options: Green, Amber, Gray, etc. At first I was thinking of using a jumper to select which one, but the pot trimmer idea was perfect!

So now I'm using pots to adjust the monochrome display to my liking! It won't get super bright because I wanted to keep the 74HC166's output below 25mA (as per the datasheet). But it's now *super* adjustable, much more so than what I was originally planning. This will definitely take up some real estate on the board, but I think it's worth it.

Thank you once again Ed! I know you didn't have this exactly in mind, but it sure was close :)

And thanks everyone.

Chad


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2022 1:11 am 
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Dr Jefyll wrote:
What if you're unable to decide whether to seek professional help?? :cry:

Jeff :mrgreen:
I think there is a jumper for that.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2022 1:58 am 
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BillO wrote:
Dr Jefyll wrote:
What if you're unable to decide whether to seek professional help?? :cry:

Jeff :mrgreen:
I think there is a jumper for that.


Hopefully not the kind that ends in a splat!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2022 2:02 am 
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floobydust wrote:
BillO wrote:
Dr Jefyll wrote:
What if you're unable to decide whether to seek professional help?? :cry:

Jeff :mrgreen:
I think there is a jumper for that.


Hopefully not the kind that ends in a splat!


Ouch!!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2022 2:09 am 
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BillO wrote:
floobydust wrote:
BillO wrote:
Dr Jefyll wrote:
What if you're unable to decide whether to seek professional help?? :cry:

Jeff :mrgreen:
I think there is a jumper for that.


Hopefully not the kind that ends in a splat!


Ouch!!


Yea, my bad.... but that is part of the business of professional help.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2022 5:28 pm 
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Redirecting the "professional help" back to the topic at hand... :P

sburrow wrote:
It won't get super bright because I wanted to keep the 74HC166's output below 25mA (as per the datasheet).
I wouldn't worry about exceeding the 25 mA spec. The chips are robust, and also in your favor is the fact that you won't be drawing current continuously. Because the video signal has less than 100% duty cycle, the amount of heat generated in the chip is reduced.

If overdriving the chip isn't sufficient then you could consider adding a simple buffer, more or less as shown below. (Variations are possible. We can discuss those if you decide to go this route. Or, just have at 'er and see what happens!)

-- Jeff


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 12:55 pm 
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Dr Jefyll wrote:
Redirecting the "professional help" back to the topic at hand... :P

If overdriving the chip isn't sufficient then you could consider adding a simple buffer, more or less as shown below. (Variations are possible. We can discuss those if you decide to go this route. Or, just have at 'er and see what happens!)

-- Jeff


Thank you Jeff! Yes, BillO had once told me that I could do that. Now you are confirming the same thing. I'll certainly keep this in mind, it would be nice to not worry about 'overdriving' the chip regardless. I'm guessing the capacitor is just a 0.1uF that regulates power to the 2N2222?

Thank you again.

Chad


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